You definitely need that engine to be cold when you get there! Tell the seller not to start it. If it's warm, get back in your car and drive away.
Hi There,
I agree with your comments, I bought my P38 about three months ago now, roof needs a bit of paint, the rest looks good, suspension block needed a rebuild which I have done, recond the EAS compressor, replaced a dodgy radio, interior was very neat, had service history up until three years ago, steering had been overhauled, air bags replaced and 220k on the clock, paid $5k for it. If the engine had the issues you talk about it possibly having for $8.5k I would be walking I think. When I arrived for my test drive and to pick the vehicle up the engine was hot on both occasions, based on what I know now I am assuming the guy was trying to hide the valve block and EAS compressor issues, the engine transmission and the rest of the vehicle for me and what I paid was great.
Oh and the door locks and the remote are now proving a challenge, something I have to post about..........![]()
You definitely need that engine to be cold when you get there! Tell the seller not to start it. If it's warm, get back in your car and drive away.
Also, with respect to the cold aspect. You want to see how the car has settled on its suspension over night. And how long the compressor pump runs for and how long it takes the car.to get to standard height. The.height settling should be quick on a healthy system.
The air compressor or something in under its cover was ticking away when I had the bonnet open. Not sure what that was about. When I sat in the car playing with the height settings, it flashed the light to say it was lowering to the next setting but didn't seem to move. I may have had my foot on the brake though. When I drove it it eventually lowered to the std setting. I tried access mode when stopped but I gave up. It just didn't seem to respond, and I have driven lots of LR products with air suspension.
Thanks very much everyone for chipping in on this thread. I have a much clearer idea of what I need to do next time I see the car.
Where is the car. I'm sure some helpful P38 owner would gladly give you a 2nd opinion.
[QUOTE=4X4V8;2166836]The air compressor or something in under its cover was ticking away when I had the bonnet open. Not sure what that was about.
I have noticed that a couple of times with The Bitch when I opened the bonett to check the tank pressue guage.
Any one know what gives ?
EAS Valve block Solenoids clicking away
After all that, it sold just before I was to go look at it again this morning. So I'll never know if it just needed a coolant top-up or it had a crack in the block and slipped liners or something in between.
The car sold for $8250, which I thought was a fair price if the engine was not gone (slipped liners). Even though it was generally really good condition, it was leaking oil at the back of the engine, the roof lining was sagging, trip comp didn't work, the EAS was playing up and there was a fair-sized dent on the right rear wheel arch. That was what I found in a 10-15 minute inspection - so who knows what else was wrong with it. Oh, and zero history with it.
It gave me hope in that I might still be able to buy a nice-looking P38. If I was going to buy it, it would have only held appeal if it was $5k with the knowledge I may have to go source a new engine. If it already had a top-hatted engine, I would've paid a lot more...
Will be interesting to see if the new owner ends up here asking for tips and advice!
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