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24th June 2014, 12:42 PM
#1
Ripping the motor out
I'm going to be pulling my 4.6 out some time over the next month, it needs the welch plugs replaced and I'm not going to attempt to do it in situ. Apparently brass and the red coolant I'm using don't like each other! Anyone got suggestions as to material type I should use for my new welch plugs? I know you can get brass and steel, can you get ally ones?
While the engine is out I'm thinking it would be wise to tackle a few other little jobs such as head gaskets, rear main seal, valley gaskets, etc.
Would it be worth replacing the torque converter, coil packs or anything else while I'm at it? I'm also thinking about relocating the coil packs to somewhere easier to get at while I'm at it.
Any suggestions/disagreements?
Cheers
Keithy
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24th June 2014, 01:26 PM
#2
Keith
This sounds like it's going to be a major project!
Gary
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24th June 2014, 01:32 PM
#3
Sounds like a lot of fun Keith. may as well change out the timing chain whilst its all apart, water pump, hoses etc. If you are doing the heads may need to consider new cam, lifters, valve grind..list goes on subject to your will and wallet. If it was me, and my budget I would only worry about the must haves.
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24th June 2014, 02:24 PM
#4
Sleeve the block. 5.0L crank and con rods (plus HC pistons to suit). New oil pump gears. Ported heads. Deck the block. Face the heads. Reseat the valves. New valve seals.
The list goes on. In for a cent in for many thousands of dollars (potentially).
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24th June 2014, 07:47 PM
#5
Haha thanks guys! The wallet isn't that big though! I was leaning more towards just tidying up ends that are easier to tackle while the motor is out. Definitely not due for a rebuild, it doesn't use oil and runs as smooth as silk!
I like the idea of a 5.0L and new sleeves, etc, perhaps not this time though! I think I'll stroke an LS1 and throw that in if my motor was tired though.
Timing chain is a good one, what kind of lifespan do they generally have?
Cam and lifters are silky smooth, I might just eyeball them for now, if the cam looks suss I'll throw a new one in.
I'm only doing head gaskets as I can see one of my heads needs a few more Nm on a few head bolts, so rather than tension something that could become an issue, I'll kill two birds and do the gasket and replace the bolts at the same time.
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24th June 2014, 09:27 PM
#6
I'd go the Torque Converter too while the engine is out and do the flexplate too.
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24th June 2014, 09:29 PM
#7
Hey Keithy, maybe some cheap insurance could be a new flexplate!
**** of a job to do in situ!
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24th June 2014, 09:31 PM
#8
I think you are right - it's one of those things that should be done. If it were a manual it's only be sensible to replace the clutch and pressure plate with it all apart.
Does anyone know if there's a 'low' stall converter for Bosch 4.6's? I'm keen to use more of the bottom end this motor has to offer.
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29th June 2014, 06:48 PM
#9
I shouldn't need to send the heads off for inspection/facing if I'm just doing gaskets hey?
Last time I did a head gasket change was on my old worked 179 Holden motor, a lot easier and very simple compared to the ol' P38!
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29th June 2014, 07:08 PM
#10
Can you borrow a straight edge?
.05mm I remember as being the limit for head re surfacing.
If that's okay, and the valves look good, I wouldn't be sending them off. No doubt you'll be getting a head gasket kit? These normally include valve stem seals - so another thing to think about, sorry. But not a hard job with a valve spring compressor if you did want to.
I followed rave pretty carefully when checking the heads though.
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