Thread: EAS woes- can't find the leak

Hi Ian
I too have suffered from EAS (experiencing asinine suspension) and your perseverance does you credit.

To test whether it is a system leak or just the system automatically lowering your car, have you removed the timer under the passenger seat? This disables the system so if you find your car on bump stops then you know you have a leak.

If the car is still.settling on all 4 bump stops after the timer removal then, in my mind, points to either airline connection failure (some of my lines became grooved due to the Schrader valves biting) or the exhaust valve leaking. The exhaust valve can leak under the swith cap, loosen off the holding screws and if you hear a.pop then you have the culprit.

Let us know how you get on with the timer removal

Jonathan

It points to another leak(s). I ended up making some soapy water with pink food dye and corn starch to make more visible bubbles. Someone recommended painting the liquid on rather than spraying. Assume you've sprayed the exhaust and all around the solenoid valves?

I think I ended up rebuilding 3 valve blocks about ten times in total, all to get a level steady car. Scant consolation, but it's worth it. I ended up buying a pack of 10mm x 1mm O rings, because I had problems seating them on the valve stem without crimping them. Most of my problems were caused by that issue. I also had dodgy non- return valves.

Keep at it.

Originally Posted by poleonpom

Hi Ian
I too have suffered from EAS (experiencing asinine suspension) and your perseverance does you credit.

To test whether it is a system leak or just the system automatically lowering your car, have you removed the timer under the passenger seat? This disables the system so if you find your car on bump stops then you know you have a leak.

If the car is still.settling on all 4 bump stops after the timer removal then, in my mind, points to either airline connection failure (some of my lines became grooved due to the Schrader valves biting) or the exhaust valve leaking. The exhaust valve can leak under the swith cap, loosen off the holding screws and if you hear a.pop then you have the culprit.

Let us know how you get on with the timer removal

Jonathan

Jonathan,
Thanks for the idea. I'll try removing the timer tonight.

cheers, Ian

Originally Posted by davidsonsm

It points to another leak(s). I ended up making some soapy water with pink food dye and corn starch to make more visible bubbles. Someone recommended painting the liquid on rather than spraying. Assume you've sprayed the exhaust and all around the solenoid valves?

I think I ended up rebuilding 3 valve blocks about ten times in total, all to get a level steady car. Scant consolation, but it's worth it. I ended up buying a pack of 10mm x 1mm O rings, because I had problems seating them on the valve stem without crimping them. Most of my problems were caused by that issue. I also had dodgy non- return valves.

Keep at it.

David,
That makes sense. I suspect I'll be revisiting the valve blocks.

cheers, ian

I think checking the diaphram in the valve block is worth a try if it's leaking from the exhaust silencer.

Hi Ian
How.did you go?