Thread: Rear Diff Whine

If you fit the ATB you wont need the STC1846. You might need the 2 carrier bearings if they dont come with the ATB. The wine could be coming from the pinion bearing, There are two with shims to adjust tolerances, not for the squeamish and the shims are impossible to find. Make your own.

Originally Posted by SteveFarmer

Hi

My rear diff has a whine

I was wondering which bits may need to be replaced and how difficult the job is.

Wanting to fit an Ashcroft ATB as well and I think it will be best to do it all at once.

STC1846 is sold as a diff rebuild kit but I obviously need a few more bits than that !

Thanks
Steve

Steve
I've just done mine, or should I say had mine done. To get all the bearings and seals replaced check and adjust backlash and preload as well as adjust the strike between crown and pinion cost me $400 plus the ATB. I don't have a press to get the bearings in and given the tolerances between a diff overheating if set too tight and one with too much slack I chose to leave this for a professional. It's the only modification or service that I have had someone else do in my 6 years of p38 ownership.
How well does the ATB work now that I've had it done you may ask? I don't know. My car is on loan at the moment to my step-son. Whilst I had my P38 off the road a few weeks back with a dead fuel pump I borrowed his Subaru Liberty with the 3.0 litre H6R motor. The motor is currently in pieces in my garage after I cooked the motor whilst driving on the freeway (that was 2 cars on the back of tray trucks in the space of a week ). It appears the pressure cap on the radiator has disintegrated (we have been finding bits of it in the radiator) causing rapid loss of pressure and fluid. Result is hopefully just a blown head gasket. We find out tomorrow when I can get hold of a 12mm hex driver for the rattle gun to take out the head bolts.
Once he's back on the road I'll be able to try out the p38 away from the bitumen.

Gary

Tough break Gary. Hope you get a positive result on the Scooby front, to allow sooner engagement back with your beloved. Hope the stepson isn't driving the rangey like a rally car.

Originally Posted by mtb_gary

Steve
I've just done mine, or should I say had mine done. To get all the bearings and seals replaced check and adjust backlash and preload as well as adjust the strike between crown and pinion cost me $400 plus the ATB. I don't have a press to get the bearings in and given the tolerances between a diff overheating if set too tight and one with too much slack I chose to leave this for a professional. It's the only modification or service that I have had someone else do in my 6 years of p38 ownership.
How well does the ATB work now that I've had it done you may ask? I don't know. My car is on loan at the moment to my step-son. Whilst I had my P38 off the road a few weeks back with a dead fuel pump I borrowed his Subaru Liberty with the 3.0 litre H6R motor. The motor is currently in pieces in my garage after I cooked the motor whilst driving on the freeway (that was 2 cars on the back of tray trucks in the space of a week ). It appears the pressure cap on the radiator has disintegrated (we have been finding bits of it in the radiator) causing rapid loss of pressure and fluid. Result is hopefully just a blown head gasket. We find out tomorrow when I can get hold of a 12mm hex driver for the rattle gun to take out the head bolts.
Once he's back on the road I'll be able to try out the p38 away from the bitumen.

Gary

Did you get to see the old bearings? $400 to fit all 4 bearings and seal plus set up the diff sounds to good to be true. The two pinion bearings could cost that alone if you got genuine. I would have wanted to see the old bearings and shims
Hope all goes well with the Scooby

Wayne
I was there when we took out the old bearings. Very rough jerky movement in the bearings when we tested prior to removal. Smooth when the new ones were put in . I didn't hang around for the rebuild and setting. Not sure if you may even know the guy that did the build, Max De Burgh. He also drives a p38 as well as a heavily modified series - Chrysler v8 motor hooked up to an auto that can still be push started if required! Along with a whole host of other nicities .
Gary

No I dont know the guy but sounds like someone to remember. You did well to find someone to do it at a great price. I could not even find one of the bearings in Australia, even with it in my hand as a pattern the two big Bearings chains could not help.

Hi

I notice Ashcroft will supply and fir bearing to the ATB for £20.00 that seems like good value!

Steve

They will be the carrier bearings, a no brainer not to change them for new.
If your pinion bearings seem ok I would leave them well alone unless you have someone to do them ( and source them 1st ). I had mine shipped over from the UK and I remember they were not cheap