Thread: P38 to L322...

I considered moving to an L322 but, as a retiree, I couldn't afford to maintain it. I think the P38A is the last Rangie that can be easily maintained at home. The cost of moving to an L322 would cover even paying for work on my P38A for quite a while.

Besides, I rarely drive the P38A these days. Yes, if I had an L322, it would get driven in preference to the Forester.

This thread is really funny. It's like the OP posted the question to be talked out of it. Looks like most here are commenting on here say and not from any actual experience.

Just to add a bit of balance, I find the L322 one of the easiest cars I've ever owned to work on. Too many people are scared off by lack of knowledge and by what others say. It is actually easier to work on than an RRC as it was designed by the Germans - little things like captive nuts and a logical installation order of parts make things come apart and go back together easily.

Now, I'm not saying buy one, or that they are more reliable than a P38 but most of the comments posted so far are a bit off target.

For a start, the V8 will give you more grief than the diesel. The transmission is a weak point on the diesel, but once rebuilt properly it will not give any more dramas - the issues all stemmed from bad metallurgy in the valve body. You can get a whole new one now, or have the old one re sleeved. The Diesel engine is very strong - it is the BMW m57 engine - google it, it's won 'engine of the year' multiple times in Europe. It is not a difficult engine to work on - Even if you need to pull the head off. Parts are not expensive if you know where to look.

The V8 - as it gets to around 200KKM will start to cost a lot, and has numerous cooling issues that can be difficult to sort. The diesel at 200KKM is barely run in. I know of an example with 400KKM on it, and it still runs like a clock.

As for the rest of the vehicle, I've found parts easy to get, and very cheap compared to fixing something like a Commodore or Falcon as there are hundres of thousands of them around the world. As an example - disks $35 each, brake pads $45 set. Rear shockers on a 5 year old version are $60 each + delivery, rear shock for a late model such as was mentioned is $160 + delivery - not $700 or $800. The local Stealers are just that - don't go near them if ou value your wallet. A set of OEM front air springs/shocks is less than $800 a pair - delivered. Not bad prices IMO - nothing that will break the bank. Given that a 10 year old version, with most problems sorted - rebuilt gearbox, new front air springs, new compressor, etc will set you back around $20K, it's still a hell of a lot of car for the money.

They aren't for everyone, but they aren't nearly as scary as everyone thinks.

Originally Posted by benji

Recently Steve started a thread about what will stop a p38, not much as it turned out. I wonder if a similar thread exists for the l322?

Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

A large puddle will....

Damn! now I'm all confused AGAIN!!!

As Maxwell Smart would have said "Sorry about that Chief"

Do your research - check out the L322 section here, and also check out fullfatrr.com - heaps of info there.

Remember that, like all forums, this will be full of L322's with issues - the ones who have no problems generally don't post much.

There are known issues with them, but if you get a sorted version with those issues addressed, you can end up with a great, reliable vehicle that will put a smile on your face every time you drive it - mine does.

BUT - buyer beware, the trannie on the diesel is the biggy - and the repair will set you back up to $7K to get done properly... Make sure you do your homework and check this out - DON'T take the owners word, call the crowd that rebuilt it and quiz them on KM, what was done and if they think it will last long term. It is the most important thing to get right - everything else is not too bad and able to be sorted for reasonable dollars.

Look at plenty of them - there are quite a few out there, and they are hard to shift, so it's a buyers market. If it doesn't feel right or drive right, walk away.

Then, you have to look closely at your P38 and ask yourself if you can live with its current niggles, fix them or is it past it and time to move on. Sometimes it better the devil you know. If its outright ride quality your after, the P38 is marginally better IMO, but the L322 is no slouch either.

All the best.

I feel I am very lucky, I have 10 years of P38 daily drive, 5 years of classic daily drive, and 3 years of L322 daily drive.

P38 is the most comfy, but my 322 doesn't have the lux pack seats.

Classic looks the best and has most character and makes me smile most when driving, and strangely feels most capable in the muddy paddocks.

I have incredible bad luck with cars, the P38 has been the most unreliable car, followed by the numerous classics, with the 322 last.

If you saw some of my posts on rangerovers.net you would know I am happy to dive into ripping apart anything as I don't like paying others to do something I can do myself, within reason. I have probably rebuilt my P38 twice in its entirety.

The plastics used through the dash/enginebay/interior on the P38 are of far lower quality/sun resistance than any classic I have had, and are far worse than those used in the L322.

I don't feel the cooling system in the P38 is quite upto the task, and the same for the petrol L322, whereas the diesel is possibly to efficient at cooling and sometimes mine struggles to maintain temp in cooler weather.

The P38 handles railway tracks/rutted roads nicer than the 322. The P38 also to me has a feel of a bit more confidence when I am trying to pull a trailer through a boggy paddock.

I am probably at the opposite end of the spectrum than most, and I specifically bought a lower spec 322 as there is less shiny objects to break and bug me. I have replaced fuel pumps, hoses, etc on the 322, pulled most of the trim out to do wiring stuff, pulled most of the front end off, rebuilt valve block etc, and found the L322 far easier to work on the the P38, which I have done almost everything there is to do.

Strangely enough I have far more faith in the L322's ecu's than the P38's BECM. And my P38 has a great BECM.

But the P38 is more fun to drive, still feels like you have a connection with the road and get more feedback, whilst the 322 is so smooth and quiet and calm, it feels a bit isolated from the environment.

Yes I have spent cash on the trans in the 322, but I put a reco trans in the P38 at 160K, as well as transfer case, each to their own. My L322 has 25k more mileage on it than my P38 and hands down there is no comparison, and if anything I have been harsher on the 322.

I like the looks of the 322 over the P38 anyday, but I do not like the looks of the later L322's.

Sorry about the rant

I'm most likely going to go the Discovery 3 path mainly due to the off road accessory availabily. Though i would love to go the L322 way as i just love the Range Rover shape and what it stands for. But i can't help but feel the L322 has gone further upmarket and away from the recreational off-road scene, not that the L322 is less capable and all. But it is becoming just a little too luxurious for after market accessory fitters to provide anything like winches, proper airbag approved bullbars etc.. Not that the P38 is all that much easier.

And the latest series 4 RR is just way up there, but is apparently the most capable RR ever....amazing.

But before that time comes i reckon there is 1 more late Thor P38 experience left