[quote=davidsonsm;2182101]Hi Sean, there's nothing to be gained effectively if you re routed the wire.
When Moulding the pvc pipe we did take advantage of the step created above the liner & below chassis rail so as to minimise any airflow restriction.
I agree with Sam that the Silicone hose would close in too much once gaurd is fitted.
Steve as far as the convoluted tubing you are looking at my thoughts (conscerns) with this is that to fit into position it would almost certainly be laying in a flattened position and would be far more restrictive than what we now have with PVC.
If you're talking spiral wound silicon tube (like the blue bends etc) it won't collapse, but a convoluted spiral wire reinforced hose will need to be deformed to shape.
As for PVC and heat, anything on a car will be in the sun long enough that it won't matter what its made of.
I'd use rect section PVC downpipe, adapt at either end to round and use whatever for the snorkel and silicon bends to the airbox.
Guys, were talking 4.6l making what, approx 60hp/l? Nitpick the stuff the effects performance. The ecu adapts to air intake temps regardless of how cold the air you stuff in there is.
Nitpick calculating negative offseting the crank and matching bore increases to maintain capacity whike increasing revs while allowing to decrease main size to Honda B16 mains to reduce oil shear. Its a P38 brick.
Hi
I am not concerned there will be any noticeable air intake restriction just looking for the easiest way to do the job.
The rectangular down pipe is 100 x 65 mm and I am not sure if that wil fit.
I assumed FANTOM would have used that instead of deforming a tube if the rectangular stuff fitted
Maybe its the 100mm size which is too big
Steve
Steve
Well that sucks, but anyway, you can move the SRS cabling. Just follow the procedures for isolating the system as if you'd remove an airbag etc.
Great stuff Martin and Sam.
I hope you've bought 3 of everything while your playing with it all.
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Rectangular PVC is available in 100x50 but even that wont fit!
Sorry but it's round or nothing! Gives most flexibility in regards to deforming as well as then connecting at each end to bends with minimum joins
(read potential leakage points).
Just waiting for s/steel to arrive so I can have another play & post up more pics.![]()
Hello all i have been pondering the Snorkel issue for some time and was wondering, the standard exhaust is 2" the inlet MAF appears to be 2 1/2" why do we need 3" inlet piping?
On that note i grabbed a piece of 2 1/2" exhaust pipe and inserted it between the guard and engine bay wall on a wrecked P38 i have in the yard and it fits, with clearance so if you need 3" going up the window pillar for aesthetic appeal that's fine it can be reduced inside the mud guard so it still looks hot or whatever outside. I have a rough idea that the inner guard piping would be fine at 2 1/2" and where it goes through the guard it can be made 3" with a nice close 90 degree bend then led up the guard to a 15 degree bend to allow fitment to the window frame and a nice 15 degree bend at the top to accept a suitable top like from Safari or similar. I will be pursuing this in the weeks to come.
Just a thought folks here are the pictures of the exhaust pipe in place. Some of you can maybe run the numbers on air flow i don't believe there will be any problem these are not race engines.
Gippy![]()
Last edited by Gippslander; 16th July 2014 at 10:22 AM. Reason: trying to paste pictures.
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