Reply With QuoteI bought Bilsteins from the USA. About US$390 plus postage. But I bought them when the A$ was somewhat stronger.
On my recent trip i noticed the front end was a bit, well floaty or loose. When the previous owner changed from EAS to Coils, i dont think the shocks were change.
Now before people go off and say Bilstiens, there must be other shocks that compare but wont break the bank.
Second part of the question, does the recirculating ball steering, i have or dont rrecall ever used this type of steering before, also use a shock, or similar. If so will changing this make the steering feel a little more solid.
Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.comI bought Bilsteins from the USA. About US$390 plus postage. But I bought them when the A$ was somewhat stronger.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
ChatterBox
There is a rather long thread hereOriginally Posted by derpomz
Peoples thoughts on Terrafirma Shocks
Personally I bought the BrtiPart foam cell shocks, they work well and are super cheap at about £15.00 each plus freight.
And yes you should have a steering damper on your track rod at the front
Steve
YarnMaster
SubscriberWith power steering, the benefits of the steering damper should not be evident in normal use. It's there to damp "violent" rotation of the steering wheel which can occur, for example, when off road and front wheels hit a washout causing them to 'instantly' swing one way or t'other ...the shock is transmitted through the steering column, the steering wheel rotates suddenly and forcefully ...and in severe cases can result in injury (sprained wrist, broken thumbs etc). If a new damper provides immediate steering improvement in normal running, then it's masking a major problem elsewhere. BTW, sliding on wet tarmac and collecting a gutter can have the same unpleasant results ...ask my neighbour...the one who had his arm in a sling last year... Hyundai Getz didn't have a steering damper!
The "Recirculating ball" system is not as precise as rack and pinion. The steering box may need a slight adjustment...there's plenty of references on how to do this.
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
Master
What tyre pressure are you running?.....I find the. Recommended 28psi front and 38psi rear great, made a difference to my handling.
ChatterBox
It could also be worn track rod / drag link ends
Steve
AT REST
I agree with Steve here. I changed my track rod and drag link ends (the replaceable bits anyway) and it improved mine immensely. Felt like new. It's a shame you can't replace both ends (have to buy a new rod/link as one end of each is a part of the bar).
A new track rod and drag link are sitting in my shed now, I'll be replacing both when my motor comes out very soon.
ChatterBox
Some rough checks
for the shocks, bounce the car up and down by pushing on the bonnet. When you stop pushing the car should stop bouncing within 3-5 bounces with the major bounce gone very quickly
The worse your shocks are the longer the car will take to come back to equilibrium.
For the steering stuff you need an assistant and putting the car in high position makes it easier to see things
With the car not running, get someone inside to gently turn the steering wheel back and forth, they don't need to try to turn the wheels.
Look down at the steering arm, you should see it move slightly, if not there is slop in the steering box.
If that looks OK, look underneath at the track rod and drag link ends, there should be no movement there either. If the seals on the ends are damaged you can be almost certain the ends are shot.
Basically a gentle movement of the steering wheel should have no slop anywhere in the system
Steve
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