Thread: Gen II Calibration

As you probably noticed from that link, I drew up the dimensioned sketch of the calibration blocks. I have a set (currently they are with Scouse). Do you need them?

Hi Ron

Yes I saw your rather good drawings on that link

I managed to somehow stuff up my settings in all the mayhem after the fire... While checking the settings with the nanocom i accidentally touched "store" and it doesn't ask, it just does it so at the moment the beast is a little high at the front

I grabbed some 30mm nylon rod from the local bearing shop for the princely sum of $15.00 so I can knock up some blocks quickly.

I will probably borrow yours in the future to double check things

Regards
Steve

To answer your question, yes. Gen II and Gen III bags are designed to work with factory calibration settings.

The calibration is for the height sensors, yeah? So is the question more about equivalent spring rates for the factory height settings?

I've been thinking of making my own set of height blocks for some time
( just need to find some spare time ) but I was thinking of using timber,
do the blocks need to have the step as shown in photos or could a constant square 40x40 do the same job??

Originally Posted by FANTOM P38

I've been thinking of making my own set of height blocks for some time
( just need to find some spare time ) but I was thinking of using timber,
do the blocks need to have the step as shown in photos or could a constant square 40x40 do the same job??

Mate

On the page I linked he uses 30mm round which is an exact fit with no step needed

Broomhandle would most likely work, but the 30mm nylon rod is not expensive and is a little stronger than wood. Though as long as you keep it vertical wood is super strong under compression

Steve

Originally Posted by davidsonsm

The calibration is for the height sensors, yeah? So is the question more about equivalent spring rates for the factory height settings?

I think you would need to deviate quite a bit from factory settings to affect the spring rates, could be an interesting exercise. Has anyone ever tried it?

Steve

A gentle reminder that the height dimensions of the calibration blocks conforming to the "Official" dimensions as per Ron's drawings are relevant only when used in conjunction with a T4 (Testbook).

If you are going to do a DIY exercise using the Storey Wilson software, then the alternate dimensions contained in the link in Steve's post (Air Suspension), requiring 4 separate sets of blocks are the ones to use, and wherein the rear axle plate to bump stop measurement is 5mm greater than the corresponding distance for the front axle-bump stop measurement. The 5mm difference is specified in the LR EAS Systems Information Document (SID).

Why so?: My speculation is that the Test Book contains specific algorithms which require only two calibration points, not related to 'real world' measurements. The test book takes the upper and lower voltage values obtained from sensors when the "official" calibration blocks are installed, and calculates the target bit values for the five height settings (including the extra high setting above max.). It then writes these automatically into the EAS ECU.

since we don't have access to the equations which LR use in the Test book then the DIY method, i.e. setting the bit values based on the correct reference displacement distance between axle plate and bump stop, provides accurate results.

This method also eliminates gross errors in using standard proxy values (i.e. top of wheel arch to floor/wheel centre distances etc which assume perfect body alignment /panel fit etc)

What is convenient however is to measure the wheel arch to wheel centre or wheel arch to floor distance for each corner at each height setting when the calibration rods are in place. You can then draw up a calibration chart for the vehicle wherein the "proxy" heights are a good representation ...for that vehicle..

sorry for the long rant...but it is important