PROBLEMS WITH A P38A

**gasman** · 9th August 2014, 07:28 AM

Hi all.
After selling all my landies its about time I came back to the fold as all the new vehicles are too expensive and have too many problems for a new car.
However, the misses has spoken "NO HEAPS OF S*&T THAT SPEND ALL THEIR TIME AT COOPERS".

Well is there a Landy that isn't?

Missed out on the Sahara Dust 2 door classic in Emerald this week, so are now looking for a original P38A.
Don't know a thing about them or anything else for that matter, so please tell me what to look out for and there associated costs.

Thank you.

**TheTree** · 9th August 2014, 07:38 AM

Hi

This thread has a fair bit of info, the bottom line is if you are going to send it to a dealer every time you have a problem, you need a big bank account

The basics for P38A ownership

Steve

**poleonpom** · 9th August 2014, 07:52 AM

If you're reliant on a mechanic to maintain your vehicle, then a P38 is not for you.

**gasman** · 9th August 2014, 08:01 AM

Thanks for the quick response.

As far as repairs goes, I'm talking rebuilding gearboxes and alike at a cost of 7k in the D3.
Having owned an 09 110 I got heaps of practice learning new mechanical skills, so everyday probe are easy.

Heard a lot about suspension woes which I'm concerned about?

**benji** · 9th August 2014, 08:13 AM

Eas is definately diy now, practically all the parts you can get, and once understood the system is quite reliable. I would have no hesitation taking the eas anywhere in Australia - with appropriate spares of course.
Transmission problems seem few and far between.

Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

**TheTree** · 9th August 2014, 09:13 AM

They seem to be one of the last truly repairable "by the side of the road" Range Rovers.

As as been said they are like a giant mechano set, there are a few jobs which are bastards like the

blend motors and heater o-rings, but generally they are not hard to work on

You can see what I have done in 18 months, slowly going through everything I can think of, with the odd stumble

http://p38.hts.com.au/service_programme.html

There are also a few much needed additions, such as a low coolant alarm and an EAS bypass switch

You will get heaps of help here, both with choosing a vehicle and fixing problems

Steve

**daf11e** · 9th August 2014, 09:25 AM

Gasman, you specifically mention suspension woes which I think have been unjustly attacked over the years and as stated above are just misunderstood .
I am not a mechanic but reading forums and help from same I rebuilt mine 2 years ago and have not had a problem since.
(I'll probably go out to the car now and it will be on the bump stops.)

**gasman** · 9th August 2014, 11:03 AM

DAF11e I hope you haven't jinxed yourself either.

**gasman** · 9th August 2014, 11:06 AM

Thanks again to all who have and who will reply over the coming days.
Can you tell me then, which would be the best model to go for?
I have read that the 2000 onwards is the go………?

**poleonpom** · 9th August 2014, 12:36 PM

Hi Gas man
Glad to hear you sleep with a spanner in your hand: the P38 is perfect for you :-)
Everything on the P38 is learnable. Once you get to grips with the foibles then it becomes almost joy.
Pre 2000 is the Gems management system and post 2000 iz the Bosch. I have heard Bosch is better but I have Gems and it has been no problem.
Steer away from anything that has overheated or has had coolant probs. Overheated P38s slip their liners and cost a bomb to fix (probably same as D2s I'm guessing).
The P38 has always drawn more negative comment about.it than others. When mine did blow a Tyre on the Westgate the tow man told.me that RRs were always breaking down. I asked him how.many he'd been called out to and it turns out I was the first!

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