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Thread: heater matrix not fitting?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    perth wa
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    heater matrix not fitting?

    Hi, any one experienced fitting a heater matrix and finding it won't fully push in?
    It is only a brit part heater, and it is a plastic end ( the bit which slides in first ) compared to the metal tubes, but I can not push it in the last 10 mm.
    Its a pita to do, and don't want to risk taking it in and out in case I damage it as it forced pasted the steering column as it is.
    as suggestions or experiences?
    It looks like I may end up taking half of it out again at some point as I believe the blend motor looks a little iffy.
    Also broke the sensor which sits on the heater pipe.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Bexley NSW 2207
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    have you tried it with the plastic end cap removed?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    perth wa
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    That's exactly what I done.
    I didn't realise it was just a cap, I thought it was a plastic end, like a radiator.
    The one that came out did not have the cap on, and as much as I tried, the cap did not seem to be in the housing, although it was a rounded end, so maybe it was just stuck there.
    I just cut the foam, and removed the end, went in fine.
    It was a ***** of a job, I cut the dash, and then welded it up after.
    Just need to find a way to secure the rest of the dash as all the tags are broken and no way to screw it back together.
    Hopefully the heat sensor will be set by the morning as I broke it while removing the air duct ( which was the only thing which made the job hard. ) I used some arledite, but seems to be taking hours to set, already been about 5-6 hours and still soft and tacky.
    Have worked out the ac not working due to the clutch, and cruise I believe is going to be the module, but lots more testing yet.
    Going to wire up the stereo properly, as there are speakers which were wired up to power, which made a good noise every now and then.
    When I tried the heater it filled the car up with smoke which is a little worrying, but I have no idea how long it had been bypassed.
    Any way, with a little more time i may get to drive it for the first time

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Mindarie, Western Australia
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    Simon

    You've got around 3 weeks to get it sorted before W4 Challenge

    I hope the rest of the project comes together a bit easier than what you've experienced so far.

    Gary

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    perth wa
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    I know, I still haven't even driven it, other than a test drive, and I took it to w4 meeting.
    Am I likely to hit bumpers and things like that, like what the disco 2's do?
    I haven't looked into it yet, but any advice on recovery points?
    I have a factory tow bar, not the Reece style, I guess that will be ok for the rear if I remove the tow ball thing.
    I'd love to sort out some type of locker for the front, but no funds at the moment. I think I will be caught out after having tc all round in the disco.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Mindarie, Western Australia
    Posts
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    Simon

    The only recover points I have on the car are the ones that came on the car, plus a shackle the fits into the Hayman Reece 2" receiver. Vernon turned up last year with a stock standard p38 and did pretty well even on hwy tyres. They can get through quite a bit even without the mods. Also not a susceptible at Discos to losing ther rear numbers on objects .

    Gary

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