Thread: blend motor

Hello again!
well after spending all weekend playing with the new to me p38, and newbie to p38's, I have to say, it has been the most frustrating weekend ever working on the car.
First up, I thought I would have a look at the cruise control, I got absolutely no where with it, I did how ever find out that I have power on the switch side, but no light, I got a little confused when I checked the high range, and low range, and got exactly the same voltage, not sure if the signal is supposed to be positive, or a ground signal. Any way, I know I will need new hoses, I thought they were ok, but on closer inspection, they look good, but are to big, so do not seal. Will have to come back to that another time.
So I also needed to look at the stereo, and while half of it was getting removed, I thought I would do the heater matrix. Long story short, heater now works, new hose and and o-rings, not sure how long it had been disconnected. How ever, after fighting the stupid air duct, and cutting the dash in half and twisting it half way through the car, it is now welded back, and back together, the stereo is back to original wiring, as the previous owner had done some weird wiring on it, I test it out, only to find that the hot is only on the passenger side.
I also checked the ac out, that to is now working, traced it to the clutch not engaging, I removed the shim, and it seems to be clicking in now, although it does click in and out a lot, not sure if thats right, but have only had it running a short time.
Today I have striped it down again, I wish I had done some reading first as there were probably a few short cuts I could've done.
I put direct voltage to the blend motor, and it works, so why would it not make any movement from the control?
I should've tested every thing again, but I didn't, I will tomorrow.
My question is......
If the blend motor works when I connect it to voltage, does this mean, the control unit is knackered?
Is there a test I can do?
Could it be the temp sensor on the heater hose?
I broke the clip, but have it securely cable tied on, can it be tested?
Also is any one good with repairing the plastics of the dash, I have found that all the plastic is broken, and there are very few screw which can be done up, the facia around the instrument cluster do not fit at all, as there are no screws holding it on, it may be due to twisting the dash that it does not fit, but it would still be nice to be able to secure it some how.
I am now also suffering with a flat battery, this happened before I touched any wiring, and the only thing was the stereo removed, so not sure whats happening there.
Any suggestions welcome
Thanks Simon

I have not really thought of a good way to fix those broken tabs

I believe Ron Beckett made a matching coloured glue by dissolving some shavings of ABS in Acetone.

We used to make a glue for AirFix kits by dissolving perspex in acetone, and sometimes just used the acetone straight on the bits as well.

Plumbers PVC cement also smells like it's acetone based.

An ebay search for "abs plastic repair kit" turns up some interesting things, including a welding gun, but that is an expensive option!

There is also this;

Plastic Repair KIT Plastex Custom Audio Install Tools ABS Plastic Repair | eBay

ACRI-BOND glue seems to work with ABS and you can also use a soldering iron

http://www.ehow.com/how_6581320_repa...s-plastic.html

Good luck!

Steve