The compressor clutch is controlled by the HEVAC system, as long as it works I wouldn't look a gift horse in the mouth ! Trace the wire and see if it goes directly to a relay if it does the voltage may be a problem
The AC in my 98 RR 4.0 has been off and on working lately, sometimes great, sometimes not at all.
I stuck a pin in the red wire at the compressor clutch while the compressor was running and cooling perfectly and checked it with a volt meter.
9.1 volts
The clutch was running and the ac was ice cold inside.
9.1 volts cannot be normal can it?
When it's not cooling right, the compressor clutch is not running and the voltage is 0.
The compressor clutch is controlled by the HEVAC system, as long as it works I wouldn't look a gift horse in the mouth ! Trace the wire and see if it goes directly to a relay if it does the voltage may be a problem
With 9.2 volt at the compressor clutch I checked the battery 10.98 and I checked the volt at the alternator 11.5.
Mate
Those voltages seem very low
I suggest you compare it with this test procedure
Sticky: Electrical Troubleshooting Updated 2010
Steve
You'll get low voltage readings with a flat battery in your multimeter. Compare your readings with another meter as they all look equally too low.
I almost went out and picked up a new Alternator today because the reading on my new meter said the output was only 11.5 directly from the alternator post.
I called two local parts stores but neither had a new one in stock, tomorrow thay both said, so I decided to test again with my old Fluke meter.
This time I got a 13.3 out put from the alternator post and 12.5 from the battery.
The new meter was way off. I almost spent $250+ because of the new meter readings.
The reading at the compressor clutch was better, 10.5 instead of 9.2. but still not standard 12V. Should I get a new alternator antway?
If the alternator or battery are not the issue......
On Gems cars the power comes from the hevac unit, on Thor cars the hevac switches a relay to provide power.
On my latest Thor car the aircon did not work when I got it. It came with a hefty recent bill for aircon work, re-gas, hoses, dryer and fault finding, last note on bill was cant get compressor to engage, seek expert model related diagnostics. I spent ages going through everything, only thing I did not have a Spare Thor Hevac unit to swap over. I Could not get the Hevac to send power to switch the compressor relay. After seeking advice from the forum it was concluded all the important switching is done on the earth side of the compressor so running a switched 12v feed direct to the compressor is an OK fix.
I isolated the 12v feed to the compressor under the main fusebox, cut it and rewired a new fused 12v supply through a relay with a small on off switch on the dash. Easy fix and now my aircon is super cold when I want it regardless of the hevac signalling.
For early GEMS cars there is TSB on a mod to increase the voltage to the clutch. I fitted the kit some years back. If you see a gold coloured heat sink (which is actually a high power resistor) behind the RH headlight and have a relay in the RL10 position of the engine bay fuse box, your car has the mod fitted.
Another part of the same TSB is to fit a new cable from the alternator to the battery. It's called the alternator link harness mod.
Another mod which I performed before the above was to reduce the air gap on the clutch. Initially I removed the shim and that worked for a few years. Then I machined a little off the boss of the clutch. I wrote about it on RangeRovers.net here: http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-r...utch-help.html
And here: http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-r...ac-pulley.html
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
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