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Hi Peter51, I note your comment - head skimmed you need to carefully do the lifter preload. In my case I also had the block machine with stepped sleeves. Once it warms up I have a ticking engine so does that mean I have to much preload causing the issue. I was thinking it not enough preload. Cheers.
yes it is highly probable. if you have replaced the rockers or had no noise prior to the skim then it is definitely the source in my opinion. Others may have an alternate opinion. Shimming to the correct preload sorted mine after a lot of mucking around because initially I thought incorrectly that the hydraulic lifters would automatically adjust, but I put in a new cam and push rods which caused noise on the side that had previously had the head work. There was way too much preload on one cylinder and the valve work was appalling with several valve tips lower than the others.
Just go to the bearing shop and get brass shim. Goto RPI ENGINEERING for the info on adjustment but measure using the post on AULRO by Hoges and me - search at technical chatter, adjustable push rods roller rockers.
You make the shims by clamping them between 2 thin plates of alloy. Then dip a rocker pedestal in ink and stamp it on a piece of paper. Overlay that template onto the sandwiched shims to mark out the shape. Drill either end of the oval with an appropriate drill slow speed with cutting oil Take out the rest with a dremel metal cutting tip. - again with lubrication and slow speed
It takes about 30minutes and the shims have no burrs.
Make sure you use a torque wrench for the rocker pedestals - they crack easily and you will have very little oil pressure - I did it when I incorrectly set the torque wrench without glasses.
It is an easy DIY for the Gems engine but a real PITA for the Thor if the drivers side rockers need to come out.
Enjoy.
Regarding the coolant in no3. It doesnt have to be a slipped lined as the differential pressure between the coolant jacket (9psi on the p38) and the cylinder on intake stroke will draw coolant in from the gap between the liner and block. However liners do slip down the bore as well as p76 said.
It also happens on other cars by the way and is not isolated to the Landrover.
However other cars are just "other cars". They are not special.
The Tree said he has no noise.
Here is a landrover block being pressure tested The leak is clearly visible with the aid of a little bit of detergent.The liner is still in its correct position.
The leak can occur without a slipping liner.
Notice the steam cleaned piston.
I've come across quite a number of LRV8 engines with block/liner issues. All the ones that leaked coolant didn't knock. The cracks would have distorted the block enough to leak but not to rattle the liners. The two blocks I've met that had knocking liners didn't leak any coolant therefore probably weren't cracked.
Well the Rislone copper block sealant seems to have done the business for now, no more clouds of steam coming out of the exhaust!
Steve
Good to know Steve, well done and no doubt quite a relief!
Gary
Yes mate definitely and I have sourced a replacement engine :p
Steve
Do tell. Please. The replacement engine story that is.
I have agreed to buy the engine from the P38 Rupert Prior is wrecking.:cool:
It has been rebuilt and has an excellent service history, I will be able to pick it up in a couple of weeks
Steve