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Thread: Suspension Air Pipe Fittings

  1. #1
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    Suspension Air Pipe Fittings

    Hi guys,

    I've recently done a test drive with my P38 towing my caravan.

    Whilst there were no real problems, one thing I noticed was the dreaded EAS fault came on.

    My set up has the emergency valves so each pipe is run through one of those plastic clip on T pieces. No prizes for guessing that the leak is in the T pieces for the rear bag; obviously because of the extra weight.

    Seeking an alternative and stronger solution I found these 6mm brass T pieces at Masters similar to these:

    2 PCS 6mm 3 Ways TEE Hose Barbed Brass Adapter Couple | eBay

    The problem is I cannot work out how to soften up the air pipe enough to stretch it over the tangs. Can anyone help?

    Jonathan

  2. #2
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    I just went to my local Pirtek and bought 6mm push-on air line fittings. $2.50 each if I recall correctly. Use them just like the original fittings. Press the blue bit in to release the air line.

    They can't be disassembled to replace the O-ring if they ever leak, they are a throw-away item.



    However, these brass fittings might be better and I'll look at buying some:

    http://www.compressedairsales.com.au...ittings-metric

    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
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    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by poleonpom View Post
    The problem is I cannot work out how to soften up the air pipe enough to stretch it over the tangs. Can anyone help?
    A hot air heat gun should work. I've used one on fuel line fittings on another vehicle. Just be careful not to overdo the heat.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
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    Agree with Graeme that a heat gun on low heat setting is the way to soften the 6mm air line to get it over those push-over fittings, however the type of fitting you are looking at is unlikely to hold under pressure IMHO. I believe the air line needs to be held in place at the fitting, like the push-on fittings or screw-on ones.

    I have tried both the plastic and metal push-on fittings and found little difference in reliability. They both contain o-rings that perish over time and are not serviceable. The Pirtek units that Ron refers to are probably the best of these, and would be a good idea to keep some spares if/when the others start to perish.

    I also got a set of the screw-on fittings as I though these would be better. Maybe it was the brand I got (some air compressor company online, no doubt the parts were Chinese), but they leaked badly. Interested to hear if anyone else has had success with that type of fitting.

    Cheers
    Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by poleonpom View Post
    Hi guys,

    I've recently done a test drive with my P38 towing my caravan.

    Whilst there were no real problems, one thing I noticed was the dreaded EAS fault came on.

    My set up has the emergency valves so each pipe is run through one of those plastic clip on T pieces. No prizes for guessing that the leak is in the T pieces for the rear bag; obviously because of the extra weight.

    Seeking an alternative and stronger solution I found these 6mm brass T pieces at Masters similar to these:

    2 PCS 6mm 3 Ways TEE Hose Barbed Brass Adapter Couple | eBay

    The problem is I cannot work out how to soften up the air pipe enough to stretch it over the tangs. Can anyone help?

    Jonathan
    These are "wrong" fittings for air in the high pressure hose used in EAS system ... heating with a heat gun can reduce the strength of the hose because it will be thinner where it expands to cover the tangs...
    Buy the fittings of the type Ron P38arover suggests.. they are designed to hold tight under pressure.
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

  6. #6
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    RS components are also a good place with heaps of stock online if you can't get to a shop

  7. #7
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    You can also find these pretty easily on eBay

    Definitely need the high pressure push on fittings

    Steve

  8. #8
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    As with Ron I also bought the plastic Pirtec ones and a couple of years have passed with no probs.......
    2000 4.6 HSE Alveston red
    2007 307 xse peugeot
    1974 xj6l jaguar

  9. #9
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    Inserting the T fitting with a valve (HVFF for example) for each airbag line, allows you to isolate the valve block completely. This comes in very handy when wanting to manually raise the vehicle above normal "high" setting to "extended" height, place wooden blocks between bump stop and axle plate as a safety precaution and then climb underneath to do inspections, grease universals and prop shafts. You can then also tilt the vehicle front up, tail down to maximise oil drainage etc Or level vehicle when parked on uneven ground...
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

  10. #10
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    Hi guys,

    Great response - thanks.

    After reading through I decided to drop the bayonet style fitting and opt for the Compression Fittings that Ron showed.

    There was no Pirtek near me, so I went down to ENZED and found these:



    They are really well made with a centre bayonet that the pipe slips over before being clamped, apparently they are used in air-brakes. Because they are so well made they come at an eye-watering $25 each, but I have been testing them and have had no leaks at all.

    Thank you all for a lot of great advice!

    Jonathan

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