My pressures mainly depend on load. Normally 32/40. But 35/45 on trips. When towing a car etc I'll put the back up to 60, as I do prefer a bit of weight on the back of the car.
Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app
there's a big difference between highway-biased tyres and D94 A/Ts. I previously had cooper H/Ts and ran them at the recommended 28/38. The Dueler D94s being light truck A/Ts have very different characteristics and need an extra 6psi in the front (as I found out one afternoon on the Macquarie Pass albeit at less than 40km/hr).
(I used ride up/down "the Pass" on a pushbike in the early 60s about 5-6 times a year)
MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)
My pressures mainly depend on load. Normally 32/40. But 35/45 on trips. When towing a car etc I'll put the back up to 60, as I do prefer a bit of weight on the back of the car.
Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app
Most tyre failure is caused by heat, which in turn is caused by the flex of the tyre, the lower the pressure, the more flex. As already mentioned, as more weight is added, and there fore more flex. Also, the factory pressure where probably worked out in a cooler country, and despite most people understanding, as the temperature rises, the pressure should increase too, this is to counter the additional heat. Most tyres have maybe about 10 psi range where they will keep the optimum footprint on the road. tyres which drop below this by only a couple of psi are now starting to get dangerous. less control of the car, less braking efficiency, high chance of failure, and of course less fuel efficient. If you are over inflated, the tyre will start being less effective, but at a much slower rate. The chance of the tyre failing will be minimal, ( these things take a huge amount of pressure before they are at any damage of blowing out from pressure, a lot more than any compressor can give you ) and also under braking, the weight increase to the front tyres will increase by a huge amount, and then the extra pressure will be of benefit. Now thinking about this, and then how and when we check them, or inflate. most people will pump them up when they are warm, so already giving approx 4 psi higher reading any way, then the non calibrated gauges, these could also be out, and if we weren't checking them frequently, or we were to pick up a slow leak. These are just some reasons, not trying to be a smart arse, but this is some stuff I talk about quiet often. There is so much info around now, compared to 10 years ago, as mentioned, there is never a one size fits all pressure, and really depends on the situation. Oh, also, if the tyre size has been changed, then the factory pressure mean very little, also if they are a different tyre than what they came out with. An l/t tyre will warm up quicker, and higher as it is thicker, so therefore will require a higher pressure. I run mine between 40-50 psi.
i ran 32 psi all round for a year or so after i bought my truck. Three out of the four tyres developed a bubble under the skin and made for a bumpy ride.They were Hancook tyres, and also appeared to wear the edges out first. My brother who was a tyre fitter has advised me to run 40 to 45 psi all round. As such the four new tyres have all been wearing even and no dramas. I drive highway 90 % of the time and asleep the other ten...no not really but steers and turns well at these pressures.
When doing a defensive driving course they reinforced the benefits of running higher pressures i.e. the 40 to 45 psi range.
So do people run the higher pressures all round or do they keep the 10PSI difference that LR specify?
Steve
I personally think 10 is a bit high, although as stated it is ok. I go around +6 for the rear and +4 for the front.
Dave.
I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."
1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
1996 TDI ES.
2003 TD5 HSE
1987 Isuzu County
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