Thread: Desert Cooler Radiator results

I was thinking of vents and proper ducting to get that heat out.

I'd like to know how it would go! I have a go-pro, lots of LED's and ribbon is simple. I can feel a science experiment coming on :-)

Cheers
Keithy

Been thinking about this, if air flow was the problem would mine not still suffer the the same problem with the larger radiator as the same amount heat still needs to be transferred through the engine bay?

Maybe the coolant passes through the standard radiator to fast to be sufficiently cooled in certain envirments and conditions pushing the engine temp higher

With the desert cooler there is almost twice the capacity which means coolant has almost twice the time to cool in the radiator, would that make it twice as effective?

I don't think too many of these vehicles would have seen of road use in their first several years and land rover know that (otherwise you woud be able to buy new range rovers today with 16in rims) and why increase production costs, also as someone mentioned before I don't think Aus and hotter climates are where they make the majority of sales.

It's just one of those things, I'm a bit biased now and converted as I also have had some melted pipes and had on many a previous occassional thought oh crap it seems hot under there.

I like the sound of your radiator setup now, will be on my list when the time comes!

As for heat under-bonnet, I was more leaning towards getting it down to improve ancillary stuff rather than the actual engine temp!

Originally Posted by Keithy P38

As for heat under-bonnet, I was more leaning towards getting it down to improve ancillary stuff rather than the actual engine temp!

yep!

Geez when you get old you remember a lot of stuff that you really wish you didn't.
I remember that LR changed the design of the top radiator hose something like at least 5 and maybe 20 times because the radiator is lower than the engine, and they persistently developed air locks in the top hose.

I have actually seen one blow off a heater hose offroad from the engine temp rise.

So I guess from that that the air lock problem is still around and maybe is the/a cause of the overheating in many 38As.

You apparently have to fill the things with the front up on a steep slope and even then any air left in pockets can still move to the top hose. Maybe fitting a bleed screw like the D2 diesel is an answer.

Regards Philip A

Phillip, is that why the V8 d2's have the bleed screw at the 3 way hose junction?
engine height?

I always bled my rrc's either facing uphill or front wheels on ramps just to get the rad the highest point of the system.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

I've never had a problem bleeding mine on level ground... Once the thermostat opens, vary the revs between 1500 and 3000rpm, a few stabs of the throttle from idle as well, and you'll soon blast those air pockets out. And removing the radiator overflow pipe until a steady stream of coolant comes out also helps...