Thread: Battery drain - gear selector lights

Why would they most of the time go straight out? ( work with the ignition )
If the alarm was turned off with a nanocom, would the rf thingamebob still pick up stray frequencies?
I am going to get a new key made up in the uk ( although that's been in the pipe line since I bought it )
Yesterday I removed the key from the fob, and the car locked and unlocked, and also started. How far away would the fob need to be before i knew for certain that I can drive the car with the key blade on its own, as I need to send them the whole key.
How does the key fob work? Does it send out a constant frequency to disable the immobiliser? I am under 2 opinions,
1 - the key transmits some type of rolling frequency which for some reason can't be copied. This sorts out the immobiliser, and allows the car to start. In theory, without the fob, the car won't start. You do not need to press any thing, the car just picks up the key is the right one. The immobiliser should arm after a set period of removing the key. The immobiliser disarms when the correct key is inserted in the ignition.
2 - the buttons allow the central locking to work ( I thought this was what the rf reciever picked up )
This does not need to work as long as the car still starts.

Mine is a uk import, so think it runs on a 415mhz frequency, not a 433mhz like au cars.
Is there a fuse which could be pulled to see if that is the power drain?

You can turn off the Immobilizer with diagnostics and just use the key blade to open and start the car. The remote will continue to function as before.
Inside you remote key is a transponder, this is the thing which send the code

You can get a new key via Vin from the UK if you have some one there to pay and pick up. I have done it. If your key works and is just falling to bits you can get a case from e-bay. There are 2 keys, one and two. You can only use one of each.

If your immobilizer is already turned off, as it appears , just buy a blank key case from e-bay and get the key cut here. Last one I had cut was $25

Yeah, defiantly turned off.
I took the dog out this morning, and only took the blade.
Its started, so that has confirmed that.
I would like to get the remote locking done though.
Has any one tried to get a key fob just to do the central locking before?
I am aware that there is only 1 of each key which will work - is this for the immobiliser or the central locking part?
It would be good if I could get the remote locking working with just a generic fob, and not have all the issue with every thing else.
I may turn on the alarm / immobiliser to confirm that my key actually works. If it turns out that it doesn't, is it going to be stuck in active mode? or will I still be able to turn it off? A little worried that it may need an active key to turn off if you get where I'm coming from. I do have the eka some where, but who knows if it'll work. Where did you get you key done from vin from?

Originally Posted by blindin

Yeah, defiantly turned off.
I took the dog out this morning, and only took the blade.
Its started, so that has confirmed that.
I would like to get the remote locking done though.
Has any one tried to get a key fob just to do the central locking before?
I am aware that there is only 1 of each key which will work - is this for the immobiliser or the central locking part?
It would be good if I could get the remote locking working with just a generic fob, and not have all the issue with every thing else.
I may turn on the alarm / immobiliser to confirm that my key actually works. If it turns out that it doesn't, is it going to be stuck in active mode? or will I still be able to turn it off? A little worried that it may need an active key to turn off if you get where I'm coming from. I do have the eka some where, but who knows if it'll work. Where did you get you key done from vin from?

You get the key from any main dealer, I sent my rego papers over to a UK relative to get one.
The transponder is the hard part, thats what you can only get from a dealer key.
Got my key blade cut from a locksmith in Freo, they even found the correct code for their machine so the new one was cut as new, not from the old worn key.
I am not sure if you can sync another random genuine key to operate remotely. The generic fobs are empty shells with a blank blade, no electrics.
You should be able to get the EKA code from any dealer, it can also be read with some diagnostics. If the immobilizer is turned of that will make it irrelevant.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Button-R...item3a9b7f292a

it is possible to use other remotes. it is just a bit different how they are wired in.

Thanks guys.
I did purchase a blank key when I first bought the car, as the old one was falling apart.
Also aware about the awkward dealer only key, I did manage to track down 2 places in the uk who can duplicate them, and also produce other keys. So fingers crossed with that. That works out about 100GBP. I will try and find some info on the alternative central locking info when I get time, that would be useful, I have an old discovery key, so fingers crossed I may be able to use that.
I noticed yesterday, when I got into my car the dim light was on again, but I had just unlocked it ( in a car park ) It did go out though.
It seems very weird why some times it comes on and some times it doesn't.

Originally Posted by blindin

I noticed yesterday, when I got into my car the dim light was on again, but I had just unlocked it ( in a car park ) It did go out though.
It seems very weird why some times it comes on and some times it doesn't.

Unlock a door or open a door = BECM now 'awake'.
You need to have everything closed & off to check these lights.

I have watched the little red light next to the "P"ark dear indicator dozens of times and it is exactly 2 mins. You can time it. Lock the car and watch the light 120 seconds later. It will go off, but then if you have a problem with the BeCM waking, it will come on again seconds later.

It must be fixed as it can cause countless other battery related problems. There are heaps of threads on here about battery drain and Becm lockouts and RF receivers. The RF receiver is the first thing to test, and its easy. Check to see if it happens in other (quiet) places, and then check to see if pulling the antenna wire off the receiver fixes it.

Get a charger on the battery periodically until the saga is completed.