Thread: Your diagnosis requested?

Originally Posted by Keithy P38

Just before you go diving deeper, with the ignition on does it show the gearbox as being in Park or Neutral? The engine won't start of it's in gear or reverse!

Sounds silly, but has caught a few people out over the years!

Cheers
Keithy

Thanks for your tips Keithy, nothing is silly at this stage. I moved the transmission gear selector up and down the other day to check it was changing in the message center. It's definitely in Park (P), also tried it in Neutral - no cigar.

Originally Posted by mtb_gary

Dom, another silly (maybe) question. But dir you put the new battery in the fob the correct way around? It does fit in either way...

Gary

Again, not silly. I did try this at the time. I puchased a new casing, and batteries. And thought initially I might have out the battery in the wrong way. I've checked the battery, it's definitely in the right way. I will have another check today, see if I can get it to work outside of the casing. Thanks for the suggestion.

Originally Posted by mtb_gary

I noticed on facebook there is now a v4 of the EAS Gemstone software. Robert has certainly been busy!

Gary

I don't think the GemStone is available for sale yet. I can't see it on his website. I'll definitely be standing in line for one if it's reasonably priced.

Domj,

Put a meter or trouble lamp on the wire to the solenoid (not the big battery lead!) and try to start. This will narrow it down to starter/solenoid or some other electronic fault upstream.
Re-syncing may not be needed to start if you have no immobilisation msg showing and it's a '95.
Been down this pathway recently with a dormant '95 P38 and after sorting through security etc.. the last fault was a water-logged solenoid.

Cheers,

Steve

Originally Posted by DomJ

The key doesn't work (electronically). I've changed the battery, changed the fob casing, can't get it to light up anymore. I've always just unlocked and locked the car using the key, not the buttons. Would be nice to get it going again though. I've never had an issue starting the car without the electronics in the fob working... but this might be one of the things that is causing the issue. Not sure how to get it repaired, I believe you can't recode another key?

Dom just a long shot, I changed my fob a little while back and found the new one didn't work and not being very electronically minded was stumped. After looking at both units I noticed my old one had some metal on the plastic screw disk that held the battery, the new one did not....put old plastic battery disk in new fob and bingo lit up.....just a thought

DomJ

Follow the link below....it's now v4 of the software.

EAS Unlock V3

A bit under US$200 plus shipping.

Gary

Originally Posted by daf11e

Dom just a long shot, I changed my fob a little while back and found the new one didn't work and not being very electronically minded was stumped. After looking at both units I noticed my old one had some metal on the plastic screw disk that held the battery, the new one did not....put old plastic battery disk in new fob and bingo lit up.....just a thought

x2 I had exactly the same thing


also if it refuses to turn over but you still get 12 volts at the starter solenoid, make sure you have a good engine earth, I got caught out with that.


Good luck and keep us posted

Originally Posted by zzsteve

Ok,
Give it a knock with a hammer...
Don't worry - it will come to life
Steve

Steve! Just wanted to let you know this was one of the problems. Thanks mate. Checked connections on the solenoid this morning, everything seemed ok. Gave the solenoid a knock with a hammer, and hey presto, the starter is now turning over. Can't start the bugger yet, but I'm happy I've made progress. Sounds like it wants to go, and I've had a slight firing rumble as it tried, but sounds like it's not getting fuel. I removed the bolts on the earth cables, battery to shock tower/bracket, and then to engine block, cleaned them up and tightened them back up - just make sure it wasn't a dodgy earth connection.

I'm now getting a fuel gauge fault on the message center. The symptoms are pretty much the same as other posts I've read. I'm going drop the fuel tank tomorrow, check the connections on the pump. Failing that I will pull the pump check the float and resistance across the sensor. I checked the fuel rail and I'm not getting fuel at the valve, so I suspect pump is not pumping, or I have some **** in the lines from the thing sitting still for so long.

I'm wondering if there's a fuel filter somewhere along the fuel line? I found what I suspect is a filter but it looks kind of small. It's located in the rear right wheel arch after removing the plastic lining.

I managed to change all the bump stops today, the old ones were about half an inch in thickness - completely squashed. Also did an oil and filter change.

Anyway, just wanted to say thanks, I'm one step closer I think to getting it running.