Never heard of re torquing a p38 before.....wouldn't it be a nightmare to get to the heads in a Bosch Thor motor to re torque and put back together ?
2000 4.6 HSE Alveston red
2007 307 xse peugeot
1974 xj6l jaguar
The 2nd 90 degrees Is the tough one!
Gary
1998 Defender
2008 Madigan
2010 Cape York
2012 Beadell, Bombs and other Blasts
2014 Centreing the Simpson
VKS-737 mob 7669
Seems like a very quick failure of those head gaskets!
Mine motor was rebuilt 50K ago and I have an issue with low manifold vacuum, I am hoping it's not the inlet manifold gasket.
Sounds like it's worth checking the torque on those head bolts
And well done Scouse
Steve
I'm not sure why but the rebuilder used early model head bolts, not the later stretch (torque to angle) bolts.
Top: Stretch (TTA) bolts
Bottom: Pre-early bolts
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Last edited by p38arover; 9th April 2015 at 09:52 AM.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
General opinion seems to be that the ARP Stud kits are the mutts nuts
Steve
Why are studs better than bolts?
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Ron
I believe it's mainly to do with being able to torque them more accurately and easily
Head Bolts vs. Head Studs
Steve
I also think they help reduce possible damage on the aluminium block. Instead of a turning & pulling force on the block, it reduces to a pulling force when studs are used.
Scott
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