Thread: p38 Shocks /dampers

Did you bleed the shocks first, or just put them on?



Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

errrrrr , 'Bleed ' ....

No , but I was wondering about that as they are in a 'compressed state ' As yet haven't fitted - was hoping to do on weekend .

( Other shocks I have fitted to things have required compressing to fit , so that was why i was asking )

As opposed to fitting and having to do again .

I have googled ...... Seems straight forward ...... I am a ham fisted idiot tho !

The fronts will be slightly longer than the rears.

To bleed them, run them through a full stroke three times in a vertical position before fitting.

Good luck mate! They are quite easy to fit.

Cheers
Keithy

STC3672 is the front damper for normal Dunlop air spring.

So-called "gas shock absorbers" are charged with gas internally to reduce the aeration/frothing of the damper oil under heavy use. Thus they expand fully when not fitted and often require significant compression to get them into position when being fitted.

Standard shocks are not gas charged and so can be readily expanded/compressed to desired size when fitting. FWIW, gas shocks are not entirely recommended for use with a properly functioning EAS.

I fitted a set of OEM equivalent standard shocks not all that long ago but on broken bitumen the ride is almost like the damned thing has solid rubber tyres... I'm beginning to think that the air springs which are now 7 yrs old and in otherwise good condition, are hardening...

when I replaced the fronts years ago I was sold a set of Firestone airbags which had dual Ford/LR markings. I've now discovered that the correct dampers for these are RSC500010. I can't find them anywhere and am wondering if they have significantly different characteristics...

Rex, I hope this helps. The front and rear suspension compression dampening feels similar, but probably isn't exactly the same, but the rear suspension extension or rebound damping is significantly stronger than the front ones. There are many books written on vehicle suspension about why that's needed, but if you could adjust the rear damping less you could feel the differences straight away if you could weakening the extension damping - the rear action would 'bounce' more and there could be more 'yaw' or screwdriver movement - less control.

If you couldn't, but used the same dampening but with more load on the rear of the vehicle as most people here do, like a caravan, then you may notice more movement at the rear as the dampening can not control the extra mass the same way, and the 'shocks' got hotter and even less control over time.

And I'm going to stop here or I'll be in trouble with others who know more or explain better what I'm saying, as I'm not a technician or a mechanic - and my books and my experiences are on me modifying my motorcycles suspensions, which I still am - but the principles apply.

I replaced all of my dampers/shocks, including the steering one, about 3 weeks ago. I noticed my Front-Left and the steering ones were leaking hydraulic oil and noticed that all were the originals. After reading through several threads here about comments on shock brands I decided to buy the Boge ones. I bought them from British Cars Components who were also recommended here. The parts and prices were;

- Front STC3672 Boge 35-342-0 B1 $87
- Rear STC3671 Boge 35-343-0 B1 $94
- Steering ANR2640/CL Genuine $67

Graeme were very patient, knowledgable and helpful on the phone. Shipping was $20, less than I expected. No, he's not my best mate and this was my first order to him, but I'll use him again.

I installed the shocks myself and the only problem I had was fitting the top bolts. They had cupped heads and didn't seem to have loctite sealers in the blind nuts, but were hard to get them back in. I cleaned the bolt and nut threads with solvent then light oil, and all of the bolts went back in (tightish) and torqued up ok.

When I checked the old shocks I found the the F/L was only working on part of its stroke and the steering one was the same. At the rear I noticed that the strength of the damping on both were quite different. Neither had lost any oil and both had full stroke action, but the R/L was only about 1/3 the damping of the R/R, which wouldn't have helped the movement at the rear of the car. I checked first but the both dampers had the same part codes on the body so it seems that something failed internally.

Ok , shocks/dampers fitted !

Rides more 'couch like' which is fine , like Gary I purchased boges and a steering damper from Graeme at British Car Components and the service was as above .

I had read on the internets that the rears were hard to do with out removing the rear liners - I had no problem with an extension and the 18mm socket ......which I had to purchase !
It would be easier if a 18mm ratcheting box spanner could be readily had to do the fronts .
Only tips I would give are the ratchet spanner for the fronts and check you aren't squashing any wires or airlines on the rear - use a torch to line up , and wear eye protection when lying underneath a vehicle that may have been off road ....

The road feel is a lot more connected and the damping is better , I have only driven on gravel and slightly corrugated roads close to home to test and it's better .
The shocks that came off were boges on the rear and armstrongs off the front , in all four cases the bushes and pins were buggered , top bushes were fine tho .
Took me about 1.5 hrs to do the shocks and damper so it's a relatively easy task.

Thanks to all who advised , I'm not scared of cars ( i have others which are older ) but this one is a little more complicated ....as in a lot more !
Aulro is a great resource and well worth the minimal investment in sharing the knowledge about
So , cheers !

Good work mate.