Thread: Dead speakers and Audio Upgrade

My speakers and woofers were replaced with Polk Audio 6.5" units. All up cost about $300 and came with a driver for each. They also came with tweeters.

Got them from Autobarn.

Cheers
Keithy

Originally Posted by Keithy P38

My speakers and woofers were replaced with Polk Audio 6.5" units. All up cost about $300 and came with a driver for each. They also came with tweeters.

Got them from Autobarn.

Cheers
Keithy

I thought about the coaxials but decided to try to keep it as a three way system

Most of those coaxials sound pretty good though!

Steve

Steve, FWIW I resurrected a pair of 10" drivers for a stereo using new surrounds I obtained from "Speaker Bits" . The old ones were worse than in yr photo... The kit came with glue included and a set of instructions on how to align the driver with the magnet... quite satisfactory outcome for fraction of price of replacement speaker. I also refurb'd the two base drivers in the p38's subwoofer similarly.

Originally Posted by Hoges

Steve, FWIW I resurrected a pair of 10" drivers for a stereo using new surrounds I obtained from "Speaker Bits" . The old ones were worse than in yr photo... The kit came with glue included and a set of instructions on how to align the driver with the magnet... quite satisfactory outcome for fraction of price of replacement speaker. I also refurb'd the two base drivers in the p38's subwoofer similarly.

Hoges you are a man of many talents

I thought about a recone as well, I has some Mordaunt-Short drivers reconed by SPEAKERWORKS Australia and they sound great.

The original door woofers are nothing special so I think replacement is a better option there.

I have decided I would rather have the space tan the subwoofer and I'll probably go with the kenwood KSC-SW11 as I did with my other rangie.

Originally Posted by TheTree

The subwoofer driver is a 10" dual coil 4 ohm driver, impossible to replace

Maybe: http://www.speakerbits.com/index.php...d=7&Itemid=110

Well I went for the silver flute woofers and they arrived in quick time from the US.

They are indeed a perfect fit in the original mounts, so it is basically the same as what Stefan did on the stockholmviews web page, except I used nuts and bolts with a dab of permatex blue to stop them vibrating loose. I wouldn't trust self tappers there, nuts and bolts are however a fiddly two person job

It sounds pretty nice I must say

Next step is to replace the tweeters and put a proper crossover in the hollow behind the door handles.

<GEEK>For the audio geeks I am using a second order Linkwitz-Riley crossover at 6K, the FRS7's are a "full range" speaker and they have a bit of a lump at 10K so I want them well attenuated by that point. </GEEK>

I have added a couple of pics to show the new woofers mounted and a comparison between the new and the old to show the difference in magnet size.

I am also going to add subwoofers back in at some point

As well I have wired up a noise free connection for an aftermarket head unit, using the Nexxia kit. As Ron said in a thread on rr.net the original Nexxia lead would never work without buzzing and noise. I will make a separate post about that.

Steve

I'm interested in the "noise free" bit you mention - I'm a bit in the dark with this as I'm still running the factory head unit.

I was thinking about putting a separate head unit in the rear, run off the aux battery through all speakers, used for camping (with the benefit of being able to use it over the factory unit for Bluetooth, etc while driving).

Would I experience noise if I were to do this just as a DIY type setup?

Cheers
Keithy

Originally Posted by Keithy P38

I'm interested in the "noise free" bit you mention - I'm a bit in the dark with this as I'm still running the factory head unit.

I was thinking about putting a separate head unit in the rear, run off the aux battery through all speakers, used for camping (with the benefit of being able to use it over the factory unit for Bluetooth, etc while driving).

Would I experience noise if I were to do this just as a DIY type setup?

Cheers
Keithy

Mate

Since you have a MY99 with the alpine head unit the nexxia lead will work just fine.

Edit: Nexxia says you don't need an adaptor lead at all, which I now remember is true, but you still need the attenuator or at least I did because the volume control was way to sensitive. I think some of the better units have an output level control

one of these from supercheap is 299
Kenwood KDC-U563BT

And of course you still need an adaptor lead, i'm pretty sure this is the one
Aerpro Wiring Harness - APP8KE1, to suit Kenwood 2005 on, 16 pin plug

This is what I had to add to my My99 by cutting into the adaptor lead;

http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrade...unitadapt.html

If you don't want a screen you can get kenwood, pioneer etc with bluetooth which is excellent.

Wiring a head unit in the back into the car system would be a nightmare I reckon

You could of course run a head unit and a pair of speakers in the back totally separate from the factory system

Steve