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If all external points aren't leaking I would assume valve block internals...NRV or diaphragm maybe. Also have you checked for leaks at compressor fittings?
I have read also of slow leaks between the valve block square components themselves...I think the valve block is made up of three.
Have also checked the compressor fittings with no leaks.
I rebuilt the compressor and valve block about a year ago, so I'd say the diaphragm would be ok, but I am suspecting a problem with the nrv's.
Looks like I'll be taking out the valve block soon!
Would be nice to have it all working properly again.
Thanks for your suggestions.
Cheers, Pete.
from the sound of it I think you may be right about it being non return valves, pain to have to take it all back out again, keep reminding yourself it will all be worth it when it's working.
let us know how it goes and good luck, after all this you have earned a break!
Have you tried ziplocking a rubber balloon over the exhaust? If it fills, it helps to understand the air flow path out of the system.
If it's leaking through the exhaust valve wouldn't that indicate a diaphragm issue?
My money is on the "red" NRV and possibly the Diaphragm Valve leaking in the following schematic http://paulp38a.com/wp-content/uploa...Inflate-LF.jpg
If the car stays up with the EAS Timer removed or door/tailgate open, but tank pressure drops, then solenoids for air springs and inlet should be ok. exhaust solenoid might still have a problem though.
This schematic is part of an article that might be useful in troubleshooting How EAS Works | PaulP38A.com
Hope this helps to narrow down the problem.
Cheers, Paul.
Thanks Paul, that was exactly the point in the right direction I was hopping for.
I had the same thought about the air spring and inlet solenoids probably being ok.
I pulled the valve block out yesterday to give it a mini check over, in particular the diaphragm and the nrv's.
The diaphragm looked ok, (it's only about 2 years old), but when I took off the block that holds the nrv's, I discovered the middle valve had fallen apart, (see attached pic).
No wonder I was having troubles!
I had to retreive the stem from inside the block with a pair of tweezers.
Fortunately I have a spare valve block on hand, so I was able to replace the damaged valve, (yes definitely in the correct direction!).
Got it all back together and I noticed the compressor seems to be running very often, then it shuts off and the valve block makes those levelling click noises, I can see the front of the vehicle lower slightly, then the compressor kicks in again after about 30 seconds and the cycle begins again.
Sounds like the slow dance I have experienced before, only it's doing it while idling and no foot on the brake.
Maybe I need to replace all the nrv seals to be sure it's not that?
I'm not sure what to do from here.
Peter when I rebuilt my valve block last time I had the same dancing and it turned out to be a pinched o ring . I found it on the EAS software the fault came up Right Front and sure enough o ring.
Mine was coming down and dancing RFront first.
Does your front come down evenly both sides?
Yes it appears to be even both sides, the slow dance it is!
When you say you had a pinched o ring, do you remember which o ring it was?
That will help me to know what to suspect first.
I'm thinking I need to redo all the nrv's, I could be wrong though!
Cheers, Pete.
I am pretty sure mine was in the front right solenoid hence that side going down first....the tic tic tic....then compressor ....again and again.
When I opened it and took the top off it was the centre o ring pinched.
PS. Both together does sound like NRVs though.