EAS tank not holding pressure.

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Originally Posted by PeterH

Nice one Hoges! I'll check that out for sure.
Is the dessicant something that can be replaced for new, or is the oven baking method fine?
I can't say I've ever seen the dessicant as an available part.
Any tips on getting into the dryer, does the top just screw off or is there more to it?
I'll have to pull the valve block apart to check everything over properly by the looks of things.
I'll do the dessicant bake as well.
Will keep you posted.
Thanks, Pete.

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My ol' chemistry professor would be (almost) pleased:D except that it is spelt desiccant ... small spelling slip cost me dearly 47yrs ago...you'd think I'd have got over it...ah well those were the days when English grammar was taught properly ...and generally "I done good" :eek: :wasntme:

Anyway apart from that small digression... yep, perfectly OK to regenerate it in the oven... you can do it countless times until you need to buy more because of the gradual attrition from it powdering. If the spring and filter paper are in good nick then the stuff shouldn't jump around too much. It's the constant engine vibration I suspect which largely contributes to the large particles gradually disintegrating.

Ok, I'll be ordering a new diaphragm tonight.
What do you gents think about the nrv slow dance problem?
Maybe I should replace the nrv o rings too, or is there another cure for that?
Cheers, Pete.

Pete I would start with rechecking nrv's and valve block in general.....if the valve block is 100% ok then there are I believe two other possibilities...
Height sensor
Driver pack.
From what I have read the driver is not very common but does fail.
I am sure others will chime in if I am wrong. If you get to the stage of wanting to check the driver I believe their not cheap and I do have a spare you can try if you want.
Just re read your thread and yes if you havnt replaced the o rings in the NRVs then that's first.

The back of the driver pack is sealed with resin material. If the resin surface looks like heat-shocked chocolate and the driver pack is original, then it's likely the pack is on the way out...

Hoges, that is an excellent descripton, it does look like heat shocked chocolate, yes it would be the original driver pack.
I have ordered a complete o ring kit, including diaphragm, once that arrives the block will be coming out once again to do the nrv's and diaphragm.
On the up side, after pulling out the valve block a few times, you get really fast at it!

I disabled the eas last night and the rear has stayed up fine, I can see the front has dropped slightly, the tank has no pressure.

I've also read the height sensors can be swapped from side to side, can this be done on a 2001 HSE?
So I'll do the o rings first, if no joy I'll swap or replace the height sensors, after that will be the driver pack.
Thanks for all the help everyone, I'd be on the bump stops without it!
Cheers, Pete.

If you swap the height sensors, you will need to recalibrate the heights with Testbook, Nanocom, or Faultmate, et al.

Sensors can indeed be swapped on the 2001 model. Re. calibration, include in Ron's list under "et al" Story Wilson's free EAS software which does a very good job on this score

I swapped my front height sensors no worries when I was having FR dancing issues.....nothing changed ruling out the sensors, that's when I found the pinched o ring in FR solenoid......it's a good way to eliminate sensors.

OK, failing the o rings and diaphragm, sensors will be getting swapped!
I already have the eas unlock software and my own home made calibration blocks, so re calibration is not a problem.
I suspect the rest of the valve block is fine, it holds up fine overnight with the eas disabled, even though the tank is still draining.
I'll be on it as soon as the o rings arrive.
Cheers, Pete.

Inside the valve driver block. Sorry about poor quality, I'll take better one later. It took me quite some time to dig out the tpoxy.

Edit: I found a better one that I had annotated.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/05/204.jpg