EAS tank not holding pressure.

**Hoges** · 22nd May 2015, 04:55 PM

Hi Peter,
in the photo in your post above, there's what seems to be whitish powder ...is it from the air dryer? If so, it may be collecting around some of the O-rings and causing leaks. It's worthwhile opening up the air dryer occasionally and tipping the desiccant into a large strainer to get rid of the "fines". You then "bake" the large particles at 90 deg C on a flat tray for a couple of hours in the kitchen fan-forced electric oven (not gas---you don't want water vapour around) to drive off the water and regenerate the desiccant. Wait for the oven to cool near enough to room temp and then replace the desiccant in the air dryer making sure that the filter paper and spring are properly installed... (reassure SWMBO it's all in the name of science)

**PeterH** · 23rd May 2015, 08:06 AM

Nice one Hoges! I'll check that out for sure.
Is the dessicant something that can be replaced for new, or is the oven baking method fine?
I can't say I've ever seen the dessicant as an available part.
Any tips on getting into the dryer, does the top just screw off or is there more to it?
I'll have to pull the valve block apart to check everything over properly by the looks of things.
I'll do the dessicant bake as well.
Will keep you posted.
Thanks, Pete.

**daf11e** · 23rd May 2015, 11:23 AM

Pete there's one bolt holding it in 8ml I think....remove air lines and remove...the top screws off and could be a bit firm as IIRC there is a spring inside....good luck.

**p38arover** · 23rd May 2015, 11:30 AM

Originally Posted by daf11e

Pete there's one bolt holding it in 8ml I think....remove air lines and remove...the top screws off and could be a bit firm as IIRC there is a spring inside....good luck.

10mm socket required. The lid is a bit tight. I did mine yesterday. I held the body in a vice so I could get a good grip on the lid. I'm about to go out and reassemble it after having it in the oven after my wife cooked dinner in there.

**daf11e** · 23rd May 2015, 11:30 AM

There's the spring and the metal inside is the cover.

**p38arover** · 23rd May 2015, 11:39 AM

That saves me having to take pics!

What I did notice was that the filter material under the top screen on mine was twisted up and not fully covering the screen. It may have let dust through into the system. I've never had it apart before.

**PeterH** · 23rd May 2015, 01:16 PM

Thank you all for the advice, certainly makes life easier!
I'll get on it as soon as I can.
Cheers, Pete.

**PeterH** · 25th May 2015, 12:10 PM

I got the cannister out and did the baking trick, Martha Stewart would be proud!
Also pulled ou the valve block again and checked for any obvious o ring problems, but could not find any.
Checked the diaphragm and non return valves, as far as I can tell, it all looks ok.
Got it back together and it is still doing the slow dance, only a bit worse now, compressor runs for a few mins, shuts off, immediatley the valve block ticks and lets the front of the car down, compressor kicks in again and it keeps cycling like that.
What is my next step here, do I need new non return valves or o rings for the nrv's?

I also noticed air escaping from the valve block exhaust while the car is switched off.
Does not seem to do it while running.
Would this indicate a diaphragm issue?
I would love to get this sorted!
Cheers, Pete.

**daf11e** · 25th May 2015, 03:13 PM

Pete I am pretty sure if air is escaping while off you have a diaphragm issue.
The diaphragm may look ok but it may still be u/s.

**Hoges** · 25th May 2015, 05:01 PM

Originally Posted by daf11e

Pete I am pretty sure if air is escaping while off you have a diaphragm issue.
The diaphragm may look ok but it may still be u/s.

yep, what he said

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