Hope they quoted you a fair price on windscreen Ron I was quoted $750 for a non heated screen by my Local O'briens and ended up buying from my local mobile windscreen guy for $250.
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Ron I had similar issue, so to test solenoids underneath I removed valve block from mounting box and then reconnected everything back up. This way I could tilt valve block while it is operating in vehicle and spray solenoids underneath to check visually for leaks - it worked and verified which was leaking, hope this helps, I know its a bit of mucking about but it worked for me. Then you just disconnect & remount back into its box.
Thankfully it was by insurance - I have windscreen cover. AAMI booked the job with O'Briens. To give then their due, I had a call from O'Briens withing 2 minutes of submitting the claim form on line.
It's good being able to see out of the screen when heading into the arvo sun.
Thinking about it, once the compressor and valve block are removed, it's quite easy to remove the box all together. Then one could mount the works back in place and test.
i found a good use for the EAS disable switch I fitted. On the way to Windscreens O'Brien this morning the compressor couldn't pump up the tank to pressure (the 8mm air line directly below the silencer and which goes to the dryer had come partially out). I was on the freeway so I couldn't fix it, so I stopped, popped the bonnet, flicked the switch to OFF, and continued with a partially inflated suspension. Had I not done that, the EAS would have gone into fault mode and dropped the car to the bumpstops. When I got off the freeway, I stopped at a servo and pumped the air bags up (leaving the EAS off).
I fixed it when I got home. The O-rings in the kit for the 8mm lines weren't quite right so the air line wasn't going into the O-rings. I fitted new correctly sized ones and was able to get a good seal.
Gahhhh!
Over the past few days the tank hasn't been holding pressure and the compressor has been running continually.
Fortunately, I have an EAS disable switch so, after getting the car to height, I could switch the EAS off and drive on.
I wasn't able to find the leak until last night. When the air pressure reaches a certain point (about 130psi), it leaks quite noisily from the silencer. I suspect the diaphragm is leaking.
What's odd is that the car goes to high profile when parked with the EAS off.
I'm half tempted to cut the trip short as I don't want EAS failure so far from home. I do have my Nanocom and Faultmate with me.
I rebuilt the compressor on my new P38 yesterday as it wasn't pumping (while I was out on a trip believe it or not), my cylinder bore was scored to the point it was chipping and had left a large amount of metal shavings throughout the compressors internals!
Luckily I had a spare cylinder and all is now well.
Good luck with yours Ron, I do hope it's only the exhaust and nothing more painful! I'd still do the trip if it were me. So long as you know a way around the issue your P38 is still very driveable!
Cheers
Keithy
Ron have you got a set of manual over rides if the compressor goes?
Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app
I'm in Swan Hill so still moving forward.
I have manual inflation valves so, while ever the corner solenoid valves work, I can inflate either with my accessory compressor or at a servo.
But silly me forgot I have, on board, the Rovair I won back at the LR 60th Anniversary. I can disconnect the EAS ECU and control everything manually.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/06/651.jpg
Thanks Dave. I should be home in a few days. I'm in Hay tonight.
Re the RovAir, I don't think Lee still makes them. I'd like one of his Mobilize units (NLA). Maybe he'd make up a batch of them.. See Labtronx Home