Thread: EAS Compressor and Valve Block Rebuild

the short piece does hold the reed away from the opening. i think it is there to bleed the high pressure away when the compressor stops, so it can restart without stalling.

Thanks very much Rupert. That makes sense. I hadn't thought of that.

From memory there's an O ring that sits in a recess that actually gets glued in. The O ring sits slightly proud. Last time I refurbed one i ended up at an O ring/seal outlet to source the correct spec.

Originally Posted by davidsonsm

From memory there's an O ring that sits in a recess that actually gets glued in. The O ring sits slightly proud. Last time I refurbed one i ended up at an O ring/seal outlet to source the correct spec.

Yes, that O-ring is on the other side under the other reed valve.

Some repair notes say not to use any sealant with that O-ring yet the ones I've pulled seem to have silicone sealant in the groove.

While I was at it, I rebuilt two more compressors - well attempted to.

One went fine, the other not so. The reed (that covers the O-ring) had been damaged by someone with a hammer and pliers. It was also missing one of the cylinder head seals. To add to that, the new cylinder wouldn't fit into the machined groove, it was a poopteenth to big in diameter.

I'm also rebuilding the valve block.

Today I was reassembling the valve block and I noticed the section of the block that has the NRVs and bolts on the main block wasn't machined flat. (See the following pic of the block to which I'm referring - stolen from PaulP38A's site).



It has a semi-circular groove from the cutter which passes under the solenoid O-ring. It's a manufacturing fault. For the moment I've taken the same piece from another valve block to rebuild this one. I'll try refacing the faulty item at a later time. I should have taken a photo while I had it off but I've refitted it to the other valve block. Maybe tomorrow I'll take it off again and take a pic.

I wonder if this groove has been a source of my issues with the EAS.

Well, that was an exercise in futility!

There seem to be more air leaks within the valve block than before. I can hear air leaking from around the diaphragm end. The compressor isn't switching on - I suspect that's due to the pressure switch, it's the only thing that seems to control the compressor. But it was working before I pulled the block apart.

I tried running the rebuilt compressor directly from the battery but it's not pressurising the tank.

It all comes out again tomorrow.

Oh, and of course the T-pieces for the manual inflation system are now leaking since they have been disturbed.

I need it back on the road by Monday as it's booked in for a new windscreen and has to be taken to O'Brien's at Seven Hills.

Gaaaahhhhhh!

Ron - give Andy a call. He should have some of the old HRA o-ring kits and air line fittings at his place or Bundalene's. I have some of course, but you won't get them in time.

Regarding the o-ring under the reed valve in the compressor, I use a dab of gasket goo to hold it in place.

Just wondering if your compressor cylinder sleeve was sourced from the east or west coast of the US by any chance? I tried a sample cylinder sleeve from the west coast crowd, and it lasted less than a week, so I never used them again.

Cheers, Paul.

Thanks Paul.

I have another O-ring kit that I bought from Rover Renovations quite a few years ago. I also have some new T-pieces of much higher quality that were given to me by Mike Summerhill when he gave me his P38A. Now is the time to fit them. Mike also gave me an O-ring kit.

Re the compressor kits, no, I bought them from i6 Automotive in the UK, Range Rover P38 EAS AIR Suspension Compressor Piston Liner Seal Repair FIX KIT | eBay