Thread: EAS Compressor and Valve Block Rebuild

Will any of the o rings from a valve block fit as I have a spare with o rings in it....I'm probably not far from you near Castle Hill.

Thanks for the offer, Daf.

I have a couple of spare O-ring kits so I'll pull the block again tomorrow.

No worries anytime....

Originally Posted by p38arover

We need a test bench to put air into the system to check for leaks before fitting a valve block back into the car.

I am getting de-ja-vu...
I reckon you should build two of these proposed "test benches".

Keep one up there and do rebuilds for the NSW and QLD markets and send one to HRA (I will buy it) so we can cover the remaining States needs!

:-)

Success! Well, mostly.

I still have a small air leak from 8mm line that plugs into the port below the silencer. I have trimmed them back but owing to their bends I can't go too far. I'll buy some 8mm line and see if I can make up some new bent lines.

I pulled the compressor apart and swapped the cylinder and piston from one of the UK kits that I'd used on the compressor that has a faulty temp switch.

The leaking rear right line was traced to a slightly damaged O-ring on the solenoid - see the central very thin O-ring in this pic of PaulP38A's.



Paul does warn about damaging them on his valve block rebuild page EAS Valve Block Rebuild Guide | PaulP38A.com.

Naturally, it had to be one of the solenoid valves on the underside which meant the block had to be completely removed - yet again. I'm getting quicker.

I'm watching the car to see if it drops on any corner. I've disabled the EAS to stop auto-levelling.

Oh, the noise I thought was air leaking from the relief valve must have been coming from the solenoid valve.

Here it is 10:45 pm and the car is still up and still level. I'm not used to this!

Well done Ron. Now you can sit back and watch the Monaco F1 GP

Gary

Originally Posted by p38arover

I checked the temp sensor in the compressor and it's open circuit and that's why the compressor won't run. I don't know where that sensor is inside the compressor motor housing.

Thermal overload switch is on a PCB at the opposite end of the housing from the piston.
Switch is typically an AIRPAX 67L120.
Replacement guide here [ame="http://hardrange.com/downloads/manual/HRA-ThermSw-Install.pdf"]http://hardrange.com/downloads/manual/HRA-ThermSw-Install.pdf[/ame]