EAS Compressor and Valve Block Rebuild

**p38arover** · 23rd May 2015, 05:23 PM

I checked the temp sensor in the compressor and it's open circuit and that's why the compressor won't run. I don't know where that sensor is inside the compressor motor housing.

I swapped compressors with another that I'd rebuilt at the same time and it won't pump up the tank either.

Re the air leak I can hear, I'm pretty sure it's coming from the over-pressure blow-off (relief) valve. When the pressure drops, the hissing stops. I might swap it with one from the other valve block I'm about to rebuild.

I came across a document by Lee Bourgeois about the EAS and he suggested a test I've never done - spraying detergent solution around the solenoids. Sure enough, the inlet and outlet valve solenoids are leaking slightly even though I replaced the O-rings under the solenoids. It makes me wonder if the solenoids underneath are also leaking. We need a test bench to put air into the system to check for leaks before fitting a valve block back into the car.

Now I've got leaks from my manual inflation system fittings so I need to replace their O-rings. Unfortunately, the O-rings in the EAS kit don't fit them. Hopefully, I can get some O-rings tomorrow. I know it's unlikely but I need the car mobile on Monday.

**daf11e** · 23rd May 2015, 09:17 PM

Will any of the o rings from a valve block fit as I have a spare with o rings in it....I'm probably not far from you near Castle Hill.

**p38arover** · 23rd May 2015, 09:32 PM

Thanks for the offer, Daf.

I have a couple of spare O-ring kits so I'll pull the block again tomorrow.

**daf11e** · 23rd May 2015, 09:43 PM

No worries anytime....

**DT-P38** · 24th May 2015, 02:58 AM

Originally Posted by p38arover

We need a test bench to put air into the system to check for leaks before fitting a valve block back into the car.

I am getting de-ja-vu...
I reckon you should build two of these proposed "test benches".

Keep one up there and do rebuilds for the NSW and QLD markets and send one to HRA (I will buy it) so we can cover the remaining States needs!

:-)

**p38arover** · 24th May 2015, 04:11 PM

Success! Well, mostly.

I still have a small air leak from 8mm line that plugs into the port below the silencer. I have trimmed them back but owing to their bends I can't go too far. I'll buy some 8mm line and see if I can make up some new bent lines.

I pulled the compressor apart and swapped the cylinder and piston from one of the UK kits that I'd used on the compressor that has a faulty temp switch.

The leaking rear right line was traced to a slightly damaged O-ring on the solenoid - see the central very thin O-ring in this pic of PaulP38A's.

Paul does warn about damaging them on his valve block rebuild page EAS Valve Block Rebuild Guide | PaulP38A.com.

Naturally, it had to be one of the solenoid valves on the underside which meant the block had to be completely removed - yet again. I'm getting quicker.

I'm watching the car to see if it drops on any corner. I've disabled the EAS to stop auto-levelling.

**p38arover** · 24th May 2015, 09:45 PM

Oh, the noise I thought was air leaking from the relief valve must have been coming from the solenoid valve.

Here it is 10:45 pm and the car is still up and still level. I'm not used to this!

**mtb_gary** · 24th May 2015, 09:59 PM

Well done Ron. Now you can sit back and watch the Monaco F1 GP

Gary

**PaulP38a** · 24th May 2015, 11:41 PM

Originally Posted by p38arover

I checked the temp sensor in the compressor and it's open circuit and that's why the compressor won't run. I don't know where that sensor is inside the compressor motor housing.

Thermal overload switch is on a PCB at the opposite end of the housing from the piston.
Switch is typically an AIRPAX 67L120.
Replacement guide here [ame="http://hardrange.com/downloads/manual/HRA-ThermSw-Install.pdf"]http://hardrange.com/downloads/manual/HRA-ThermSw-Install.pdf[/ame]

**p38arover** · 25th May 2015, 07:24 AM

Hmm, I wonder where I'd get one of those....?

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