Thread: Hello..allow myself to introduce....myself..

Can you tell me more about the hychill? Thanks. Nice rig. Great colour.

Originally Posted by davidsonsm

Can you tell me more about the hychill? Thanks. Nice rig. Great colour.

I believe its lpg
cheers
blaze

Originally Posted by davidsonsm

Can you tell me more about the hychill? Thanks. Nice rig. Great colour.

Thanks, not as well set up as yours tho..

Yep, it's basically LPG. It's a propane/butane mix. Check out the Hychill website, there's plenty of info on the net. A lot of white goods manufacturers are using it in fridges and freezers, it's used a lot in heavy machinery aircons, the last statistic I remember was over 1 million cars in Oz are running it. It's much more environmentally friendly than all the synthetic refrigerants (R134a etc.)
Don't listen to all the nay Sayers nor the scare campaigns instigated by the military industrial complex and the patent holders like DuPont etc.
It works great, the compressor runs at lower head pressures too, and you use less than half the charge weight of R134a.

Cheers.

Hi mate. I've been looking at hychill for a little while myself. Did you find that it cools better than the r134a? My aircon is okay but not great.

Originally Posted by banarcus

Hi mate. I've been looking at hychill for a little while myself. Did you find that it cools better than the r134a? My aircon is okay but not great.

Hi mate.
Yes, I reckon it works better. Mine pumps out vent temps of 6 deg C on a fairly hot day, not bad for a 20 yr old system.
Cheers.

Another thing which can be a real bugger to fault find is the a/c evaporator temp sensor. It disengages the compressor before Evap temp gets too low in order to prevent the Evap icing up and blocking air flow.
I'm not certain of the exact temp, prob around 4 deg C.
It's a probe type thermistor, similar to the ambient air temp sensor behind the front bumper.
It is located in the drivers side of the Evap (it's shown in the workshop manual) but the manual (I don't have RAVE) doesn't list the resistance values at various temps.
Anyway, mine is faulty, so it was cutting the a/c compressor out way to early, so I simply backed it out of the recess that it slides into until I was getting Evap temps around 2 deg C before it cut out the compressor, then I secured it in this position with duct tape, cheap fix! And the a/c is working perfectly, sooo chilly!

Originally Posted by banarcus

Hi mate. I've been looking at hychill for a little while myself. Did you find that it cools better than the r134a? My aircon is okay but not great.

The guy who did my air-con said he no longer puts Hychill in the P38's because he had problems with it seeping out. Seems it's more prone to that than the R134A.

Mind you my air-con hoses were not in the best shape !

Steve

Originally Posted by TheTree

The guy who did my air-con said he no longer puts Hychill in the P38's because he had problems with it seeping out. Seems it's more prone to that than the R134A.

Mind you my air-con hoses were not in the best shape !

Steve

I do remember reading something along those lines Steve, I think it was due to hydrocarbon refrigerants being a smaller molecule or some such thing.

Funnily enough, I recently replaced the suction side flex hose on mine as it had bulged out. I removed the aluminium pipe and hose assembly, took it down to my local Pirtek, and they replaced it with the latest Good Year barrier a/c hose.
Perfect factory finish for less than $30, very happy! I also replaced the o rings at the compressor flange and the pipe union connection when refitting.
I guess I've reduced my possible leakage by 50% now

I do all my own a/c work anyway (I was a marine engineer in the Navy, so HVAC was part of my job) and I have a vac pump and gauge set etc, so is easy for me to do a top up or evacuation and recharge if required.

Cheers.