Reply With Quoteso i should change the new BPR6Eix i just put in ? I have a bad'ish idle but I think it's the coil packs, never looked too much into it as it's good on fuel just a little erratic on idle for a V8
My P38 runs like a dream! Cold and even better when on temperature.Originally Posted by prelude
Hi all,
I've been having this problem that my engine usually want's to nearly stall if I try to move the car just a few meters when cold and in various other circumstances. I suspect the idle valve but am not sure how to test it. The first thing that came to mind is that nearly all vehicles I own or have owned have a high idle when cold, that is to say higher then when warm. My V8 has never had a high idle. not even when around the arctic circle at around -30c it's always 650-750 rpm. I thought that was because the V8 with the power strokes so close to each other simply does not need it but perhaps my car is simply broken but I never really noticed
So how do your P38's idle when cold?
-P
What type of sparkplug you have? They want the Champion ones.
Fossicker
so i should change the new BPR6Eix i just put in ? I have a bad'ish idle but I think it's the coil packs, never looked too much into it as it's good on fuel just a little erratic on idle for a V8
AT REST
Perfectly good plugs if they're clean and properly gapped. It's a very long time since I've used Champions, no idea where they're made these days but they used to be absolute garbage 25 years ago.
ChatterBox
Hi
I use the NGK as well, they seem well suited
Steve
ChatterBox
Coil packs and leads do have problems with corroded connections sometimes, it would be worth checking
Steve
AT REST
All the P38’s I’ve worked on (both Gems and Thor) have been given the NGK treatment. I’ll never use champion plugs, they’re absolute rubbish. Only good for lawn mowers.
I have found that the rover V8 doesn’t like iridium plugs though. Just standard, correctly gapped plugs are perfectly fine.
Cheers
Keithy
Wizard
SupporterHi guys, an update on the idle issue.
The IACV is working like it should as far as I can tell and the car has not stalled since a few weeks. The rpm still drops to far when idling forward or backwards etc. (read previous posts for the exact behaviour) but only down to, say, 400-ish in stead of (nearly) stalling. I would like it to run better but I guess for now it'll have to do. What I have found though is that the emission of the engine vary a lot, almost to much for the tester to measure quickly enough. When I test it on a higher RPM though, it is just fine. When I test it idling with my foot on the brake and the car in drive, it's also within acceptable levels. This is not allowed during official testing though.
Given that the engine RPM is also not stable when idling unloaded I am beginning to suspect that the ECU is constantly adjusting, slowing the engine down because the RPM is rising to much, speeding it up because the RPM is dropping. The measurements suggest high levels of unburned fuel and a bit to much oxygen at times. I have not yet found a way to adjust the idle RPM in the ecu but I could try and fool the system by adjusting the small screw on the throttle body. If that fixes my MOT problem I'll be happy for now
What I have also noticed is the backlight on the HEVAC to dim slightly when I hit the brakes. Also, the outside air temp is of by several degrees (almost always to low) sometimes when I start the vehicle. It takes it quite some time to get up to the correct reading. Perhaps there is a ground or power issues somewhere in the car that throws of the ECU. I know my intake air temp is always at least 20c or so to low so that might not help at all.
Keep you posted!
-P
Wizard
SubscriberIf your HEVAC light dims when applying the brakes, you definitely have an earthing problem. Most likely the route of your idling problem.
Check your earth points for a start.
2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)
ChatterBox
Hi
The outside air temp taking some time to get correct is deliberate design behaviour, that said it still sounds like you have an earth issue
I ran extra earthing cables between the earth points under the bonnet so it no longer relies on the connections to the body
Steve
Swaggie
SubscriberI have to qualify my comments by saying I am pretty experienced with 14CUX but not on GEMS.
The IACV is actually a stepper motor which has a little rack and pinion inside. If you move the shaft you basically destroy the stepper. There are widely varying qualities of steppers, and I would go for a more expensive "name brand". The IACV for a GEMS has different mounts to a 14CUX. Looks like the one used on GM engines. Some steppers have a different wire order in the plug than others so I would buy a specific GEMS stepper from a known source rather than a cheap stepper for a Jeep as this is a possibility.
I think your cam is the major problem. A cam that gives power from 2000-6500 is inappropriate for a RV8 in a 2+tonne vehicle. It will always feel dead at low revs and most of the time you will rarely exceed 2000-2500RPM. Great in a TVR but crap in a RRC. Although in the Netherlands I suppose there aren't many hills.LOL
Your idle changes when moving slowly are intriguing. The VSS gives a signal to the ECU to step up idle when the vehicle is moving slowly. This is designed to ease the change into first as the vehicle comes to a halt, but a byproduct is that as soon as you move slowly forwards of backwards the idle should step UP to around 1100RPM.
Regards Philip A
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