Thread: What to look for when purchasing a P38?

Sounds like you've found a well looked after vehicle and you seem quite capable of evaluating the normal mechanical stuff like transmission clunks, funny noises, oil leaks, prop shafts etc., so I'll just warn you of the major Achilles' heel of the P38 V8: the cooling system, particularly the radiator. It may look like it's flowing OK, but can be up to 50% blocked without you realising it. If I were to buy the car, I would immediately replace the radiator, or at least take it out and get it flushed. When the V8 overheats, you get no warning. By the time the gauge is in the red (assuming you notice it getting there) the damage will be done and your heads will be cooked. It literally takes only a few minutes to remove a P38 radiator after the water has drained away. Dead easy to re-install. Mind you, a viscous fan bolt spanner is handy.
Let me give you two examples:
1. A mechanic who specialised in Range Rovers had his P38 radiator core flushed out each year and replaced it every second year. Without fail. Virtually every week or so a P38 came into his workshop for an engine swap due to overheating.
2. When I was buying my P38 in New Zealand (from here), the mechanic who had serviced it for years for a family friend assured me the radiator was fine. However, I still asked him to remove it and get it checked for my peace of mind and he reported back that he was completely surprised that it turned out to be 30% blocked. Probably not a huge risk in NZ, but it would have been fatal here.

From what you describe, it sounds like a well loved P38, which is a great start!
My first classic Range Rover came in a well looked after condition and that proved to be an excellent vehicle.
I remember the first time I drove my P38, I had that 'where have you been all my life' look on my face.
I've had mine over 10 years now, still love it every time I get in the drivers seat.

Personally I love the air suspension, yes it does require maintenance every so often, but the ride is so nice and the ability to raise or lower the vehicle with the push of a button is a great thing.
It's one of the things that makes it a P38.
But I know some prefer the zero maintenance springs bring, each to thier own.
With any P38, or even any Land Rover, having a good set of tools and getting your hands dirty now and then is a huge advantage, so you don't have to pay mechanics, plus you get the rewarding feeling of fixing it yourself.
They are getting on a bit now, so like any vehicle of that age, you have to expect a few things to need attention every now and then.
If you can keep regular maintenance up to it, you are ahead of the game, they respond well to being looked after.

*check the carpet in the drivers footwell, specially where it goes up under the dash/transmission tunnel, for signs of coolant leakage or dampness. This is where the o rings for the heater matrix can leak. You can fix this yourself, plenty of info on this on the forums.

*check for the book symbol on the bottom right of the temperature screen, this could indicate a problem with the blend motors which are part of the heating ventillation airconditioning system (HEVAC) again, you can fix this yourself, plenty of info on the forums.

*the rubber bushes in the suspension will wear over time, like any vehicle, I would check those out, along with the steering components. make sure it is not pulling to one side when you test drive.

*grab the fan (engine stopped of course) and see if there is any movement side to side, up and down, looking for any movement in the water pump bearing. The fan has a viscous clutch, so you should be able to spin the fan with some resistance, you don't want to see it spinning freely. Again, viscous clutch easy to replace if needed.

Everything I've mentioned is fixable, so really, if it were me, the big things are the engine and transmission. Listen for any unusual knocks, miss fires or uneven idleing, smooth shifts from the transmission while driving without any whining sounds. Even this can often be fixed with fresh transmission fluid and filter. Signs of head gasket failure is another thing I'd be checking.
The thing is, pretty much anything that can go wrong has already been tackled by others and documented, which is a huge help when it comes to doing repairs yourself, or even diagnosing them.
A fault code reader of some type is invaluable too, I have a Faultmate extreme and it has been a saviour by pointing me to the right place every time.

A service history will tell you what has been done and when, which is a great advantage. Things like air filter, spark plugs and leads, oil and filter changes, plennum filters all need doing at some stage.
I could go on and on, but that's a good start.
I'm sure others will add to the list, but it really up to you, if you have a good feeling about it and the vehicle checks out ok, I'd say go for it!
You just deal with things as they come up and you will end up being a P38 expert over time, like the rest of us here.
Hope that is of some help, good luck with it!

Thanks PeterH and DieselLSE,

Very useful advice that helps a lot. I will check these areas on my 2nd inspection tomorrow, I’m pretty keen to make the purchase though and become acquainted.

I agree with the radiator concerns, I’m just going to change that one out for a brand new unit straight away plus all new fluids, auto tranny flush and replenish.

It would have been nice to chat with the original owner, he would have been a wealth of knowledge on the P38. I’m going to have to try and learn the vehicle myself with the help from the local mechanic in Toronto. Actually I did see a fault mate in the vehicle so thats a relief.

Thanks again.
Jace

One thing I like to do is when I get a new (to me) vehicle, before I touch anything, I drive it for a couple of days to get a feel for what it sounds and feels like.
Kind of like setting a base line in your mind.
That way when you start changing fluids and filters, you can tell the difference each thing has made and you know you are improving things.
Having said that, if you are anything like me, it's hard to resist tinkering with a new Range Rover, it's irresistable!
The other thing you will definitely want is a digital RAVE service manual, invaluable when you are doing any work on your Range Rover.

Okay here's my 2cents worth - probably worth -2cents to anyone else!

Having a Faultmate will come in handy with a P38. You will use it.

A few other things to watch for - dancing door locks (pop up and down randomly as you drive along). The microswitches fail in the door locks. Another way to tell if they are on their way out is to open each door individually. The interior lights should come on and (with ign on) the driver display should indicate that the door is open. If a door doesn't do that, likely to be the lock. The locks are about $400-$500 each new. There are some guides on rebuilding them with new microswitches but I haven't tried that.

Viscous coupling (driveline, not fan) can fail - it'll be locked up like a part-time 4WD if that's the case. Not good, expensive to replace. Ashcroft Transmissions in the UK do a re-con service I think (NLA new).

Check the horns work. They can fail (fairly rare, but my car's had failed).

Important to start the car from cold - to check for a misfire that can be leaking head gaskets.

There's more - lots more - you can check. Google is very good for P38 queries as so much as been posted about this model.

P38 replacement parts prices are a mixed bag - pattern consumables (and even some genuine LR ones) are dirt cheap, other stuff where only original available or pattern parts can't be trusted (there are a few of those) then it can get expensive. Eg $500 door lock.

If you need a replacement keyfob there are two guys I know of in the UK who can set up a replacement for about $300 ($600 for genuine replacement, although there are rumours circulating that LR won't supply P38 keys anymore. Don't know if that's true). It's an aftermarket Disco II 'lollypop' style key, but it works.

You need commitment if you're buying a P38. I have wanted to own one for 10 years before getting mine in Feb, nearly bought one several times. Bought a couple Disco IIs on the rebound from failed P38 purchase attempts. I wasn't happy with a Disco, I just couldn't warm to them. I'd forgive my P38 almost anything.

The main thing I keep seeing P38 owners saying over and over is that if you spend the time and money on maintenance, keep on top of everything, they are a reliable, rewarding vehicle. Just only aim for an annual oil change, and you won't be happy with a P38.