Thread: Crazy EAS bypass issue

I would be determining if the added schrader valves are just teed or the lines are cut and the valve is the only means of keeping the bags inflated, like others have mention for all 4 corners to drop there has to be a common area thats leaking.
I replaced the front struts on my D3 last year the front started to drop overnight, i suspected the front valve block and it was only after raising up the front to put the axle stands under that i heard a woosh and found a split in a bag that was covered up in normal height and only leaked slowly over a week or so.

Originally Posted by loanrangie

I would be determining if the added schrader valves are just teed or the lines are cut and the valve is the only means of keeping the bags inflated, like others have mention for all 4 corners to drop there has to be a common area thats leaking.
I replaced the front struts on my D3 last year the front started to drop overnight, i suspected the front valve block and it was only after raising up the front to put the axle stands under that i heard a woosh and found a split in a bag that was covered up in normal height and only leaked slowly over a week or so.

Good idea. So far, I have only been under with soapy water when the vehicle is up on ramps, but not wheels jacked individually. It is very likely that the leak occurs only in some positions

It is now evident that it is a rear bag leaking, because over the past week, one corner has dropped from maximum height to where the body is sitting on the tyre. The leak must be very slow to do that.

I found a Dunlop part number sticker attached to one of the spare (used) airbags so I now know which are the front and which are the rear units. I'll test the rear ones with compressed air in the hope of identifying any leak. I have purchased a can of Bostom brand tyre inflator/sealant and because the bag is on the bench, it can easily be rolled around, inflated and deflated to ensure the sealant gets to the leak. Only then will I swap the one on the vehicle for the spare.

Wish me luck please!

Originally Posted by aussiebushman

It is now evident that it is a rear bag leaking, because over the past week, one corner has dropped from maximum height to where the body is sitting on the tyre. The leak must be very slow to do that.

I found a Dunlop part number sticker attached to one of the spare (used) airbags so I now know which are the front and which are the rear units. I'll test the rear ones with compressed air in the hope of identifying any leak.

Wish me luck please!

Examining the "spare" rear airsprings, there is NO evidence of splitting or damage and overall seem to be in good condition, so after a cleanup, I'm pretty sure they can be reused. Better still, my favorite mechanics at Tyre Team Goulburn changed the bags on another Land Rover just last week and have no hesitation about changing mine, so I have booked in to have this done next week.

The hard part will be getting the existing bage to hold air long enough to get me the 80km to Goulburn. I'm going to try this with about 30 psi all round, because higher than that it is like driving without any springs at all. Of course I'll take the 12V compressor with me so that I can top up on the way if necessary

We shall see!

The EAS problem on my 2001 P38 has finally been resolved, thanks to Matt at Tyreteam Goulburn. However for the benefit od members, an explanation may help.

a) Despite others saying that an airspring change can be done at home,only a fool or desperado would attempt it. Two professionals, a hoist, supplementary lifting tools and special long nose pliers were deployed and even thenm the job took over an hour.

b) one rear shock absorber had failed so both rears were replaced - easy enough to do if you have the right tools

c) One rear Arnott airspring was obviously cracked,so both rear airsprings were replaced with the Dunlop ones supplied by the previous owner. That done, I drove off to get supplies, but quickly realised that one rear corner was bouncing off the tyre - as it had done before the work was done. I immediately returned to Tyreteam.

d) An airline indicated that one of the replacement airsprings was holding NO air at all so it was removed for inspection. The two sections of the bag had separated, because unlike the Arnott versions, there was NO metal ring securing the two parts, so any decent drop into a pothole was enough to break the seal - see attached picture.

Fortunately, one of the original Arnott bags that had been removed and replaced with the Dunlop was is reasonable condition so it was redeployed on the vehicle. The result has been exceptionally good. One the 80 km drive home over bad roads that included about 20 km of rutted and potholed gravel, the ride was quite good, I must say that the EAS is not as good as the coil suspension on my 91 Hiline, but it is acceprable.

The moral of this story is DON'T BUY DUNLOP AIR SPRINGS - the design is very poor. They may be acceptable for city and highway driving, but certainly NOT for country roads and/or bad gravel.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/attach/jpg.gif

Agreed.

I run Arnott gen II's right now and have brand new gen III's on the shelve. Though one of my gen II's has leaked since day 1, it has been so inconsequential that I have left it for years like this. I'll be bringing the still good gen II front and rear (one each) as spares for my trip. The gen III's should be more comfortable than the gen II's. Do you happen to know which you have?

The big difference is that the gen III bags are non linear, so on highway mode they should sag to a broader part of the base resulting in a stiffer bounce and more highway worthy ride with less roll etc. Once you get to off road mode the base becomes thinner allowing more travel and more comfort/flex on the rough stuff. The added advantage is that on hard work the springs effectively become progressive. ie. the first part of travel is soft, hardening up once it reaches the end giving you some extra "room" before you hit the bump stops.

Cheers,
-P

I spoke too soon, saying that the problem was fixed. There are minor airleaks where the distribution lines fit into the block housing the Schraeder valves and no amount of prodding or pushing will seal them effectively. The leak caus the suspension to drop overnight

Can anyone suggest a remedy?

New o-rings?
some kind of sealant?
Keep the front and back number plates and throw away everything in between?

Got a decent compressor line onto the Schraeder valves and managed to punp the rear airsprings to around 60PSI before turning off the taps installed into these two air lines. That has effectively sealed off the part where the lines entered the block and where the most obvious leaks occurred. For sealing, I have read that Loktite will work though it will mean disassembling the connections

So now the arse of the vehicle is sitting very high. I took it for a test drive over a badly rutted track and unlike before, the vehicle rides reasonab;y well. I think the front airsprings need more air to provide greater clearance over the body/front wheels and to level the front vs rear. That should be doable even though there are no taps in those llnes


This at least progress of sorts and better than spending a couple of grand converting to coils