Thread: NEW REAR BAR / TYRE CARRIER PROJECT- another buyer wanted

Hmm, I found my UN pitch gauge and the RRC studs could be UNF. It looks like 18tpi. I'll have to pull the wheel off the carrier to check properly.

Late edit:

I've pulled the wheel off the carrier and one stud is 16mm. I'm sure it's metric. The 18 tpi thread gauge nearly fits. I can't find my metric pitch gauge. I could use a metric rule.

The other two studs are a smaller diameter and are 13tpi Unified Thread. Looks like Kaymar didn't want to spend the money on LR studs

Mate, this is probably a silly question, but can't you just replace the carrier studs with something that's not out of an Indiana Jones cave?

Failing that, I'd got to a Fastener joint (That just deals in nuts & bolts)
When ever I strike these problems I just sit the nut on the counter & say "hit me with (4 of) these"
95% strike rate.

Good luck

Gents

Sorry to hear some of you have been through some pain with 4x4 i thought it was just me and getting the first bar built.

Mine arrived with the wrong bolts on the tyre carriers D2 i am informed so it was sent back and returned with RR thread. I bit the bullet and put factory RR wheel nuts on.

If it is any consolation my bar has survived 4 trips around the maroney loop and being blasted over corrigated roads with twin tyres on the back and is still functioning great.

Safe Travels Captain

Originally Posted by Captain HSE 4.6 2000

Gents

Mine arrived with the wrong bolts on the tyre carriers D2 i am informed so it was sent back and returned with RR thread. I bit the bullet and put factory RR wheel nuts on.

If it is any consolation my bar has survived 4 trips around the maroney loop and being blasted over corrigated roads with twin tyres on the back and is still functioning great.

Hi Captain - glad to hear your bar and carrier is holding up well. Despite my pain about the bolts/studs I've got to admit I'm pretty happy about bar and carrier overall. It's a nice looking unit (although I reckon chequer pattern "bling plates" look better on Defenders than on Rangies) and seems quite solid. The LED lights are a nice touch but I don't like the high-mount number plate bracket. Until I swap over my large "Euro style" plates for small ones, I won't be able to mount it down low like on yours.

Don't know if I'd trust the recovery points on the bar - the tow bar hitch still seems like a better idea - but the eye-hooks could be useful tie-down points.

re the bolts/studs - From what you say, it sounds like 4x4i knew about the problem a long time ago. The D2 and P38A both have 14mm studs, but the D1 and RRC had 16mm studs. Rather than sending my carrier back I just ordered some 16mm nuts for a RRC and they do the job just fine. Since my spare is a steel wheel, the big 16mm nuts are no problem and I just have a PVC wheel cover to hide the ugly black spare and the fact that I have no lock on a $300 tyre!

cheers
Paul.

Oh no, I have to go through the process again! After having the 80 series whack my rear bar & carrier out of shape the insurance company has decided to get another 4x4i bar - I asked them to replace it with a Kaymar. At least this time I'm not paying a mechanic $100p/h to sort out the problems, but I'll be really surprised if 4x4i can get a bar to Sydney within 3 weeks as promised.

Captain & Paul, I agree with the bar being good & robust particularly the styling of it but did you have any of the following problems which needed to be fixed?

Hub cap on carrier to cover axle didn't have depth for grub screws
Over centre latch was dangerous to use - like a guillotine on the fingers
Axle wasn't sized correctly for the hub
Angle of 5deg had to be applied to the arm to match the bar face
Gas strut was too short to allow rear door to open fully

On a positive note, I put the sliders on by myself & had no trouble at all. They're bloody great.

Originally Posted by Ricey

Captain & Paul, I agree with the bar being good & robust particularly the styling of it but did you have any of the following problems which needed to be fixed?

Hub cap on carrier to cover axle didn't have depth for grub screws
Over centre latch was dangerous to use - like a guillotine on the fingers
Axle wasn't sized correctly for the hub
Angle of 5deg had to be applied to the arm to match the bar face
Gas strut was too short to allow rear door to open fully

Hi Ricey - bugger about that 80 Series - I feel for you. In repsonse to your questions:

1. no problems with my hub cap on carrier that I can see.
2. latch is bloody dangerous I agree. My son got a nasty bite from it.
3. axle seems ok. I guess it woud have excessive movement if incorrect.
4. the guys who fitted it didn't mention any problem with arm.
5. gas strut works great and moves the carrier well clear of the door. I had a guy in an 80 Series trying to copy the design the other day for his bar/carrier.

Did you get P38A sliders from 4x4i as well? If mine can be repaired after it's drowning last weekend I would like to invest in some sliders, but not before getting a snorkel .

Cheers, Paul.

Originally Posted by PaulP38a

If mine can be repaired after it's drowning last weekend I would like to invest in some sliders, but not before getting a snorkel .

Uh oh! Tell us more (or have I missed the thread?).

Originally Posted by p38arover

Uh oh! Tell us more (or have I missed the thread?).

Hi Ron - yep, sorry tale over at http://www.aulro.com/afvb/range-rove...tml#post850559

I found out the hard way that a P38A may handle a bit like a boat sometimes but it doesn't float like one.