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Thread: Looking at buying a 2000 model Range Rover.

  1. #1
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    Looking at buying a 2000 model Range Rover.

    Hi all, just doing a bit of homework here, your expert opinions would be greatly appreciated.
    I have owned an 89 classic Range Rover for several years now, it has been a great vehicle, but I'm thinking of updating to around a 2000 model Range Rover.
    It is my understanding (correct me if I'm wrong) there was an update around the 2000 model with BMW electrics which seem to be an improvement on the pre 2000 models, can anyone expand on that for me on what the update was over the previous models?

    I'm a very hands on Range Rover owner and I do pretty much all the servicing myself on my '89, have never had a breakdown to speak of and it has been the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned.
    How much of the servicing and other jobs can be done yourself on the P38?
    I have seen some guys have invested in the Rovacom lite gear to reset air suspension and diagnose fault codes etc, is that a good way to go?

    Also is there any common problems I should be looking out for?

    Thanks, regards, Pete.

  2. #2
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    Hmmm - you may not get the same reliability of of a P38 that you've got from your Classic!!

    If you do a search here on "P38A Problem" you will get quite a few pages of thought provoking reading

    Great car when they are working, but can give a lot of headaches by all accounts. I skipped and went from a classic to an early L322 which has been particularly reliable to date.

    Good luck!

  3. #3
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    Well I guess that is the other option, just wait until the L322 comes down in price a bit more! They drop so quickly in price, you certainly would not buy a Range Rover as an investment! Nice looking vehicle though, I would like to have one someday.
    I remember researching to buy my classic Rangie, which are not without thier problems, but fortunately most of those seem to be small annoying problems rather than major faults.
    My theory is if you keep them really well maintained, you have less chance of a breakdown...of course no car can guarantee NEVER breaking down!

  4. #4
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    G'day Peter,

    I have read so much about the 'failings' of the P38, usually from people who don't own one. I am currently on my sixth Rangie, and my first P38. I reckon that if you want a P38, and you are prepared to look after it and learn about it, you will drive like a king for very little money.

    I have had my 99 P38 4.0 for about 4 months and 10 000 kms and have had no problems. Its a magnificent car to drive and very capable in the bush. Its also much easier to work on than the RRC.

    The so called 'P38 problem' that people refer to is often a referral back to early P38s which were the first of the fully electronic Range Rovers and they had their teething problems. There was also an issue with slipped liners in some motors. But by the later models most of these issues had been dealt with.

    You are quite right in referring to an updated model, the 99 models and later. There is a different induction system giving increased power and better economy, and a Bosch rather than a GEMS injection system. The electronics are better sorted giving fewer problems.

    That is not to say you will have no problems. The P38 is still a big and complex motor car and will therefore have its share of issues. But no more so than any other car of its size and complexity and age.

    Move from an RRC to as P38? I did and I reckon its - by a long shot - the best car I've ever had. Go back to a classic? Short answer - no. The RRC was a great car in its day, but its day has gone. I enjoyed them, but it was time to move on.

    One further observation. There is not yet a strong supply of used spares for the L322, and there is for the P38. A quick check on eBay and you will see what I mean. So it is more economical to maintain a P38 than an L322 at present. Mind you, an L322 is a brilliant car - it just costs more!

    A good 99 and later low mileage P38 at the right price is a brilliant car, and for the money, an absolute bargain. If you like it, go for it.

    Willem

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    Shhhh Willem. Not only are you convincing PeterH but you are also convincing me and I'm already convinced.

    PeterH. As someone said in another thread on P38s. Never, ever test drive a P38 if you don't want to buy one. That was very good advice.

  6. #6
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    LOL! Good advice...I have resisted the temptation so far, I know it would turn into a very expensive test drive!
    I guess once you have the Range Rover bug it's end of story.
    I am very happy with my classic, it has done an amazing job, but it is also a 20 year old vehicle now, so the time is nigh for something a bit more up to date.
    I love getting in there and fixing things myself, so that is probably my main concern, as with the classic I can do almost everything, not sure if that is the case with the P38.

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    Oh dear! I can see what is going on here. It's not a declination to buy a P38 but a procrastination as to when..........sigh. You're gone PeterH. What colour are you getting?

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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterH View Post
    LOL!
    I love getting in there and fixing things myself, so that is probably my main concern, as with the classic I can do almost everything, not sure if that is the case with the P38.
    All the mechanical things are just as easy, if not easier with the P38. The electronic side is a new area you will have to learn. Another interesting challenge!

    Willem

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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterH View Post
    Hi all, just doing a bit of homework here, your expert opinions would be greatly appreciated.
    I have owned an 89 classic Range Rover for several years now, it has been a great vehicle, but I'm thinking of updating to around a 2000 model Range Rover.
    It is my understanding (correct me if I'm wrong) there was an update around the 2000 model with BMW electrics which seem to be an improvement on the pre 2000 models, can anyone expand on that for me on what the update was over the previous models?

    I'm a very hands on Range Rover owner and I do pretty much all the servicing myself on my '89, have never had a breakdown to speak of and it has been the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned.
    How much of the servicing and other jobs can be done yourself on the P38?
    I have seen some guys have invested in the Rovacom lite gear to reset air suspension and diagnose fault codes etc, is that a good way to go?

    Also is there any common problems I should be looking out for?

    Thanks, regards, Pete.
    I might wade in here guys if I can. A P38 has long been on my shopping list but for one reason or another, hasnt happened...not yet anyway (much to JC's delight)

    SWMBO's vehicle is due for replacement and I showed her a pic of one today and she liked it.....bloody hell I might be in with a chance here

    anyway, my first question is.... 4.0 or 4.6, which was the better for reliability. There doesnt seem to be a huge price difference btn the two even given the other inclusions such as leather etc

    and secondly, if the air suspension starts playing up, I see that a coil replacement kit is available at a reasonable price. Putting ride comfort aside, is this a viable option cost wise to avoid te continual maintenance that you so often read about.

    Thanks PeterH for your original thread, it is good to see some positive things being written about the P38.

    thanks in advance

  10. #10
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    A GEMS P38A engine is far easier to work on than the Thor engine (as used from '99 onwards and in the D2).

    Try changing the spark plug leads on a Thor.
    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

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