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Thread: EAS height settings

  1. 4th May 2009, 10:26 PM #11
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    PaulP38a
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    They give the system a fixed reference point for suspension heights. This enables you to calibrate the system.
    Yeah, now it makes sense to use calibration blocks.

    Made up another EAS diagnostic cable on the weekend, but with a 10m lead so it would reach from the car to the garage computer with a serial port.

    All worked just fine... I was able to read and set heights using the EASunlock suite, but found that adjusting one corner affected the others so I was really just chasing my tail.

    I can now see that having calibration blocks would let me set the predetermined height using the blocks, read the current heights with the "Heights" page and then set the correct values in the "Calibrate" page.

    Now to work out where I want the heights to be and make some of these blocks.

    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    Measuring from the ground to the wheels arch is not the ideal method.

    Measure from the centre of the wheel to the wheel arch. This overcomes differences in tyres pressures, differences in tyre size, etc.
    I take your point Ron. When doing this on the weekend I found that guess'timating the centre of the cap could lead to some small errors so used the top of the centre cap instead. It's all relative I know...

    Cheers, Paul.
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  2. 4th May 2009, 10:32 PM #12
    Hoges
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    Hi Paul
    seems we were both tapping away at the same time...see my post on p1 (@ 11.24 pm...vs your 11.26pm!!) I hope it helps and not just add to a very confused topic
    cheers
    Hoges
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  3. 4th May 2009, 10:45 PM #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoges View Post
    Hi Paul
    seems we were both tapping away at the same time...see my post on p1 (@ 11.24 pm...vs your 11.26pm!!) I hope it helps and not just add to a very confused topic
    cheers
    Hoges
    Nice one Hoges - very useful thanks. That's what I really like about this forum... there is always someone here who has either done it before or given it much thought.

    What did you make your blocks out of? Think I'll have to give it a go myself.

    cheers, Paul.
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  4. 4th May 2009, 11:01 PM #14
    Hoges
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    "What did you make your blocks out of?"

    They were a bit crude but I sawed off the correct lengths from the piece of 4" x 4" x 10' jarra (no less ) which the builders next door had thoughtfully abandoned on the gutter for 2 months after they completed the job and gone ...I of course was just being a helpful neighbour keeping the street clean and of course OH&S issues were foremost ... well someone may have tripped on it (did I mention there were 6 lengths? )
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  5. 4th May 2009, 11:10 PM #15
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    Cool, I wonder if my accountant will believe me if I tell her that timber from Bunnings is a legitimate tax deduction for my vehicle
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  6. 5th May 2009, 12:13 AM #16
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    I have a set of the genuine calibration blocks and have made a drawing of them for anyone who'd like to reproduce them:

    http://p38arover.com/rover/p38a/pix/LRT_60-003.pdf
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  7. 5th May 2009, 12:30 AM #17
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    You're a good man Mr Beckett. What's the significance of the 10mm hole in the middle? Perhaps to remove the bump stops and place the blocks on the threads? Is this only used for two height settings?

    Sorry if I'm being thick, just trying to understand how it works.
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