Thread: Keyfob issue - unlock button

I found the same. The switch had broken off the PC board. I opened the case and resoldered the switch.

Opening the case is a bit fiddley. You have to work around the case by tapping along the weld with a hammer and a thin blade that will split the weld so the case can be taken apart. This method is often used by me on welded plastic cases.

nice one Ron - i've been keen to try this for a while as mine stop working after a mate dropped them for a great height. Is it easy enough to get them back together again or does it need to be glued up?

I was able to disassemble the keyfob without doing too much damage by getting a large blade flat-head screwdriver and gently twisting the blade inside of the recess where the key folds in to. Once the case started to open up, I got a small flat-head screwdriver blade and gently worked my way around the case until it popped apart.


Note: This keyfob was from my '95 HSE. I haven't tried it on the keyfob for '99 4.0 yet, although I expect it is the same.

More pics at Cordwell.net Keyfob

Cheers, Paul.

The reason for tapping around the joint is to crack the weld.

I glued it back together with Superglue. It can be easily broken apart in the future if needs be.

Originally Posted by PaulP38a

I was able to disassemble the keyfob without doing too much damage by getting a large blade flat-head screwdriver and gently twisting the blade inside of the recess where the key folds in to. Once the case started to open up, I got a small flat-head screwdriver blade and gently worked my way around the case until it popped apart.


Note: This keyfob was from my '95 HSE. I haven't tried it on the keyfob for '99 4.0 yet, although I expect it is the same.

More pics at Cordwell.net Keyfob

Cheers, Paul.

As far as I can see it is identical to my 99 P38a key.

Willem

When I bought my car, the #1 key wasn't working & rattled.
I took it apart & found the part that looks like it has white paint on it had come adrift. Some careful (some might say flukey) soldering had it back on & working perfectly.

I worked on the rattle in mine last night and had to laugh at myself - after 10 minutes of working it with 2 screwdrivers to pry it open, it finally gave way with a sudden explosion of each individual component flying in different directions Thank fully i managed to catch the circuit board!

Found that the rattle was the small white unit that sits in front of the large chip (with the white paint on it). Not sure how i'm going to get it back on as the soldering is miniscule. I'll be dropping into Dick Smith today to see if they have any ideas...

Cheers,

D

Yesterday at KLR Auto, I was asked if I could look at a keyfob where the lock button worked but not the unlock button.

I opened it up and found solder joints on the unlock switch cracked and the joints on the adjacent transistor, under magnification, also looked cracked. Soldered all up and the remote is working again. One of KLR's customers is going to be happy.