Paul,
make shore wheels are straight, engage steering wheel lock, adjust steering wheel till you get movement.
Am taking Ron's advice and removing the steering intermediate shaft so I can remove the exhaust manifold heat shield (another thread).
Followed Rave and removed the top bolt securing the shaft to the steering column. Also removed the bottom two bolts securing the shaft to UJ and steering box.
Rave says I should be able to slide the UJ up the spline of the shaft, but it won't.sprayed it with some silicon spray and tried to coax the split apart a little with a large screwdriver. Still not wanting to budge and I don't want to risk damaging it by using unnecessary force.
Suggestions please brainstrust![]()
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
Paul,
make shore wheels are straight, engage steering wheel lock, adjust steering wheel till you get movement.
i do it the easy way.
1, remove the bolts in the shaft.
2, remove all 8 body mount bolts.
3, put forklift tines through side windows and lift body off.
4, steering shaft falls out then.
Andy
Hah! even if I had a forklift at my disposal (mutters word beggining with B and ending in D in feeble attempt to avoid Ron's swear filter), it wouldn't fit in my garage and if it did I couldn't do it that way 'coz the back windows are closed and the battery disconnected... and I wouldn't want to break that nice new window/door that I got from you
Oh, and I got bitten by that battery disconnected issue a couple of days ago when I decided to pump up the EAS using the air compressor that I keep in the spare wheel well... "no power = no tailgate release". dropped the rear seats, removed the parcel shelf, forced the floor-door-flap-thingy open, did the contortionist twist up-around-down and managed to manouveur the compressor out of the hole.
We've gotta come up with a manual bypass for the tailgate release. I'd consider it a safety issue if I was an OH&S type. Instead, I'm just a lazy bugger who reckons a small battery pack in the boot area connected to a push button might do the trick. Something else to add to my list of "stuff to do"
Got the steering intermediate shaft to move a bit by tapping very gently with a hammer... then got a phone call from a relative... 3 hours later I couldn't be bothered going back out to the near zero temperature, so it can just soak up the silicon spray and I'll look at it again tomorrow arvo.
Cheers, Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
I use a ball joint splitter fork down between the steering box and the UJ.
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Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
Elisabeth gets a bit peeved when I hit her "Ronaldi" (true) piano with it.![]()
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
Paul ... I'm working blind on how a P38 shaft setup is /// but if it's like a regular LR setup as on my RRC ... then the below will do the trick
The steering shaft has a splined end that goes / fits into a cast clamp that has a bolt that tightens up the clamp (onto the splined shaft)
Undo the bolt ... then insert a large screwdriver into the split of the "clamp flange" (where the bolt is) and drive the screwdriver into the split with a hammer // forcing it open "slightly" .... This will open the clamp up and release it's grip on the splined shaft
Mike
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Paul, did you remove the bolt?
IIRC, the shaft has a groove so if the bolt is not completely out, the UJ won't come off.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
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