Wizard
After a busy week at work and driving "not Range Rovers", I was looking forward to putting the rest of the motor back together and maybe even kicking over the motor this weekend. T'was not to be...
On Saturday arvo I wandered out to the garage with a cup of coffee and a random selection of music, fired up the PC and started following Rave where I had left off the previous weekend.
Heads on ok, rockers and covers on ok. Put the shiny new valley gasket in ok (ignore the fingerprints).
Put lower inlet manifold on - NOT OK. Lower maifold will not drop in if rocker cover gaskets are on. Bugger!... tried to loosen the bolts on the covers but didn't trust it so removed the rocker covers and gaskets.
Lower manifold then went on ok then but couldn't get good access to the bolts because I had re-attached the fuel injector rails. Off with the rails again, tightened the bolts up ok, and reattached the rails and fuel line. Replaced a bunch of cooling hoses and that was it for the day/night.
Today I put the rocker covers back on but wasn't paying enough attention to Rave. So there I was tightening up the 8mm bolts to 28 lbf.ft and thinking "gee this is tight" when I hear "snap". Checked Rave again I should have been tightening them to 5 lbf.ft - no wonder!! Luckily I was able to ease the broken bolt out.
oh well, I really should have got new ones anyway.
Kept going with other bits. Broke a couple of those brittle yellow tabs on the injector looms, but cable ties fixed that ok.
Then discovered that I didn't have a replacement o-ring for the "inner coolant rail" to the inlet manifold and the original was broken.
Appears to be a 20mm ID o-ring, probably 22-23 mm OD. Anyone know the exact spec and where I can get it in a hurry please?
Cheers, Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
Wizard
go to repco, with the pipe, and they should have a selection. the size is not that critical as long as it is a good fit over the top, and about the same thickness. o rings stretch a little, so you cannot go off the broken/worn/stretched dimensions too much.
Andy
Wizard
replaced the broken bits tonight - all good
... then broke the "plenum chamber bleed pipe" (the brittle black plastic pipe with rubber ends that goes in to the bottom of the expansion tank) while trying to point it back to the plenum chamber. The fact that it broke so easily indicates to me that I should have been replacing it anyway. It is one of the few pipes that I didn't get a replacement for... no reason other than it got missed on the list.
now to remove the expansion tank and get a new bleed pipe...
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
Fossicker
Paul,
Dunno if you want to keep it all original, or if this might be an idea to prevent it again, but.....
Is it possible to replace the whole thing with a rubber hose? Or use a long piece of rubber hose and small section of the plastic pipe with a hose clamp?
If you want gimme a call.
Chris
Wizard
Thanks Chris, I ordered a new "Throttle Housing Return Pipe" and "Throttle Housing Inlet Hose" from CMW today and will collect sometime tomorrow so I can hopefully try to get this beastie running again soon.
BTW: on GEMS motors it is called a "Plenum Chamber Bleed Pipe" and a "Throttle Housing Return Pipe" on Thor motors.
Cheers, Paul.
My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com
YarnMaster
SubscriberHad similar prob... on Thor motor. So I used a length of high pressure neoprene /rubber fuel line i had hidden away "for just such an occasion"(spares from my 1971 2850 LC Torana which left the family in 1983...).
Swaggie
SubscriberThey are for de-icing in Europe , so would rarely be needed in Australia.
Graeme Cooper used to fix common throttle body leaks by just plugging both tubes at the rad connection.
My Thor has them disconnected and I have never had an issue.
So unless you go to the snow a bit, just plug them.
Regards Philip A
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