Thread: Best of the best P38 Mechanics in Melbourne

The only problem I had when I made mine was too many cans of beer. I shorted one of the pins, lucky I checked before I used it. I would post a photo but I'm a little embarrased by the state of it..LOL

Me

Guys,

There I was struck dumb by the fact that I couldn't get the EAS Unlock software to work; I tried more positions than the Karma Sutra to get the damn thing to work and there was a fair bit of prodding and a few choice pornographic expressions used too. I checked my wiring back and it all connected, I reloaded the software, even tried it on different computers, it went so far that I also stripped down and put together my ancient creaking Dell to get it going for the software. Did it work, did it f***

Walk away, walk away....

And then all those kind offers of being able to use Pete's and Aussie's cables - cables that they made themselves mind you, and in Aussie's case it was 'a bit of a botch job' - but eveyone elses works, so why not mine

Another day, same setting; in the shed. I take apart the cable and I think to myself; self, I should check the 9 pin diagram - so I go back and look and yes it looks right , until I realise the diagram is shown from the solder pins, not the from the connection pins as I had done it, wrong that is - WHAT AN EEEJIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So, back I go, re-solder and connect and YES, it works

So the EAS fault is gone, the pump pumps up and down, rollover and beg and the system is now adapted to allow manual pump up if and when needed. Here's some photos of the adapted system:





I'd forgotten how lovely it is to drive when the EAS is working properly. I couldn't resist showing a few other 4wd drivers that my car can go up and down when I parked it and went to fetch my daughter from school. No fears with the EAS system from now on....

Now I have the dreaded over-heating to contend with - Did a quick run locally and the temp gauge didn't move, however, when I got out the car, the radiator overflow was leaking water:



I've got the Irontite on order and I'll take some photos and do a wee write up when I do it.

Thanks again,

Jonathan

Nice one poleonpom, glad you got it sorted.
Don't feel too bad, I did exactly the same thing, after making up the lead the first time, I tested for continuity and something was not right....when I realised I did it in reverse, I made up a reverse diagram for the solder lugs on the 9 pin connector and it worked...happy me!
It's great to have the eas doing what it is supposed to...even better feeling good about fixing it yourself and not spending $$$$ to have a LR mechanic do it.
I'll be interested to hear how you go with the overheating issue.
Cheers, Pete.

Hi everyone,

I've just had some work done by AMV. I've bought parts from them on other occasions, but the Rangie needed some TLC this time!

The LPG system has been playing up, so in she went for diagnosis.
Well... I thought that there was an inlet manifold leak somewhere... I couldn't find it, but the guys at AMV did! They also found a leaking radiator top tank (where the overflow hose comes out), it was cracked about 3/4 of the way around, so that was replaced, so was the gasket around the water pump
Oh, and they found a third leak in the water line to the LPG vaporizer, that too was fixed.

All in all, I received top quality service from the team there and will recommend them to anyone

Cheers,
Mick.

Originally Posted by poleonpom

I've got the Irontite on order and I'll take some photos and do a wee write up when I do it.

Thanks again,

Jonathan

Just wondering if you've done the IronTite yet & how did it go?

I'm kind of in the same boat


Thanks

i know this is a massively old thread but i was just wondering where you guys got the Shrader Valves that can connect directly to 6mm pipe? i make mine from steel wheel valves, bench grinder and super glue but id rather have a correct solution