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Thread: Little Miss Adventure

  1. #61
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    I find POR15 to be more pain than it is worth. (and it is worth a lot! $$$)

    My thoughts, just get some thick black enamel. Thats the stuff that has done a good job for the last half a century! Cheap, easy and effective.
    [B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]

    [COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
    [U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  2. #62
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    I've been splashing Penetrol around, seems good so far. One bit is on the headlight grills on my County so i'll tell you how it goes after a bit of UV exposure soon. You can mix it with paint too. I reckon that's the go.

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shonky View Post
    I find POR15 to be more pain than it is worth. (and it is worth a lot! $$$)

    My thoughts, just get some thick black enamel. Thats the stuff that has done a good job for the last half a century! Cheap, easy and effective.
    maybe your right shonky.....especially as POR15 I would have to brush on rather than spray which would take up a lot more time.

    I have rubbed back the inside of the mudguards and sprayed them with kill rust slightly pointless but they look neat...

    I'm however tossing up the idea of getting the car completely undersealed what are your thoughts on this? I had the 90 steam cleaned and under-sealed in the UK before bringing it here and it lasted for years really seemed to protect everything
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  4. #64
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    I agree, if the LR is going to be used for light duties, then POR15 is a waste of $$ (although a very good product).
    Carlos
    1994 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi
    1963 Land Rover Series 2a 88
    Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu3...BtsNIuTyGkAo5w
    Instagram: https://instagram.com/rover_tasmania/

  5. #65
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    Well thats annoying...

    I had some other doors here waiting to be used was going to take the best bits from each to make up some reasonable doors..

    until I went to change over window tops and found I was able to easily punch holes through the bottom of the frames and door bottoms of the doors, we pulled off our wrecker.

    so I have doors that look great! but are actually shagged!
    and doors that seriously looked shagged but are more usable then the ones that look great!

    I guess I will be cracking out the car body filler and welder.....I guess I'm going to have to learn to weld at some stage
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  6. #66
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    use the skins off the look-good doors on the frames of the structurally-alright ones?

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by dullbird View Post
    maybe your right shonky.....especially as POR15 I would have to brush on rather than spray which would take up a lot more time.

    I'm however tossing up the idea of getting the car completely undersealed what are your thoughts on this? I had the 90 steam cleaned and under-sealed in the UK before bringing it here and it lasted for years really seemed to protect everything
    I wouldn't say brushing would take any more time. Certainly what you gain in applying by spray you lose in set up, mixing and cleanup. Nothing beats cracking a can of $30 GMH black and slopping it around with a $5 brush which you throw in a jar of thinners afterwards and leave it there. I did Gus with the above, and the finish is smooth, shiney and rock hard for no effort. It looks just like the original too.

    I wouldn't bother undersealing a series. If it cracks it can trap moisture underneath and create a perfect environment for rust to go unnoticed. It may slightly reduce heat and noise, but by nature it is still going to be hot and noisy!

    It's only a weekend car. You won't get your value out of it and it won't look original.

    My thoughts. It's yours so the end decision is up to you for whatever reasons you see fit.
    [B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]

    [COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
    [COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
    [U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shonky View Post
    I wouldn't say brushing would take any more time. Certainly what you gain in applying by spray you lose in set up, mixing and cleanup. Nothing beats cracking a can of $30 GMH black and slopping it around with a $5 brush which you throw in a jar of thinners afterwards and leave it there. I did Gus with the above, and the finish is smooth, shiney and rock hard for no effort. It looks just like the original too.
    What's GMH paint?

  9. #69
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    Nah shonky I would far rather use a spray gun anytime over brush. Spray gun takes 5mins to set up
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by korg20000bc View Post
    What's GMH paint?
    Also known as chassis black. It's basically a cheap, quick drying semi gloss black paint.


    Scott

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