Thread: Little Miss Adventure

Oh Ok Ian said he was told copper as it doesn't corrode I will let Ian know

Thanks for the tip haven't tried anyone yet as Ian was pondering where he was going to get the copper from..looks like it might be easier to do after all

i'm glad your following the thread Erich its could to have someone with your experience lurking in this thread

just a small handfull of points.

first up good work so far.

the normal way for repairing the elongated shock hole is to weld a heavy washer to the underside of the existing hole and then filling in from the top prior to grinding it back. theres not a lot of difference between what you've done and the washer way, the washer ways just a bit faster and easier.

on the spring hangers the one side of the hanger should be threaded and there should be enough thread left over to take a nut. Theres no need to use nylocs on them as ther locking mechanism for them is the good old double nutting technique. you'll probably find that unless you order special short profile nylocs that the nyloc will not engage correctly.

you can get thick wall copper piping for doing brake lines with however its prone to corroding via electrolysis and fatigue fractures. The steel stuff is stronger and lasts longer and once made to shape responds well to hitting with phosphoric acid and then hitting it with undercoat and a nice hard enamel paint.

If you need it Ive got the appropraite benders and flarers for normal brake line. to get the size line you need just take a flare fitting with you and size it up in the shop, most brake places will help you out.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

just a small handfull of points.

first up good work so far.

the normal way for repairing the elongated shock hole is to weld a heavy washer to the underside of the existing hole and then filling in from the top prior to grinding it back. theres not a lot of difference between what you've done and the washer way, the washer ways just a bit faster and easier.

on the spring hangers the one side of the hanger should be threaded and there should be enough thread left over to take a nut

. Theres no need to use nylocs on them as ther locking mechanism for them is the good old double nutting technique. you'll probably find that unless you order special short profile nylocs that the nyloc will not engage correctly.

you can get thick wall copper piping for doing brake lines with however its prone to corroding via electrolysis and fatigue fractures. The steel stuff is stronger and lasts longer and once made to shape responds well to hitting with phosphoric acid and then hitting it with undercoat and a nice hard enamel paint.

If you need it Ive got the appropraite benders and flarers for normal brake line. to get the size line you need just take a flare fitting with you and size it up in the shop, most brake places will help you out.

It is threaded on one shackle plate the nyloc came with the bolt kit...
I would be surprised if they don't engage properly as we still have a few threads left and the nuts have not been tightened up yet.
I guess I will see once we tighten them up but the diagram for the suspension set up only shows one nut.

Ian has just bought a flare kit so he can do the job we just need to buy the bender and the pipe

Originally Posted by dullbird

It is threaded on one shackle plate the nyloc came with the bolt kit...
I would be surprised if they don't engage properly as we still have a few threads left and the nuts have not been tightened up yet.
I guess I will see once we tighten them up but the diagram for the suspension set up only shows one nut.

Ian has just bought a flare kit so he can do the job we just need to buy the bender and the pipe

on the double nutting the plate is the first nut and the second nut winds up tight onto the plate without a washer. Previously Ive found that the bolt only penetrates about a turn into the nyloc.

Ok thanks will see how it goes if it doesn't tighten up enough will swap out for a normal nut

A little bit more progress not as much as I would of liked but that's what happens when life gets in the way

So front axles now in we had a few dramas getting the axles in to the diff when diff was fitted however the axles went in quite easily without it. rightly or wrongly the axles were put in with a bit of force as it appear that was the only way we could get them in......everything still turns ok so we can only hope that that is OK. I guess once we get the thing in a movable status we can address this later should something be wrong. Before anyone says the diff is damaged this happened on both diffs we tried and one diff we def know was working when we took it out of the other car.





rear axles in, new brakes shoes + Cylinders, new drums new wheel bearings, new shocks all fitted and wheels on.

Dont look to hard at these wheels they are off a shorty but they will not be staying on the car they are only fitted in the short term while I get the 109 wheels prepped and painted to go on. This at least will help us winch it in and out of garage should we need to.



everything in place on the rear axle....Nothing has been tightened up yet as it appears the shocks and springs could do with a bit of weight on them first



We may not of gotten far but at least it is slowly starting to resemble a car again.




that's it for now the engine is waiting to go back in as is the gearbox however I might take some video of the gearbox for opinions as the the shaft that sticks out in the bell housing (output shaft???? is that what it is called) one appears to have more movement then the other (I have two gearboxes) although it has been suggested they should have movement, so figured it might be best to video and show the movement to get peoples thoughts

Ok today was the day the engine is going back in

Just taking the tension up on the chains...I can tell you I was pretty nervous as only have one lifting point on the engine so we had to improvise using the engine mounts and other solid type attachments on the engine



Ian taking the bolts out from the engine stand



engine lifted to height and ready to maneuver in





and finally Ian pushed it in to place while I gently lowered it down



and a pic of Ian just placing the flange bolts in as I took out the old bearings and replaced with new wheel bearings put everything on to the axle but my back would no longer tolerate me sitting on the floor for that long so Ian just had to put the bolts in for me...
That's the first time for me changing bearings so was a very good learning experience.



unfortunately I couldn't do the other corner as the hub is missing a wheel stud so need to replace that before putting that on.

Next set is to sort out the gearbox and putting that in. I will get the firewall down from the other shed so we can make the small repair and then I can get on and paint it ready to go on

you can put the hub on, you can insert and seat the studs in situe..

wheel off, drum off and depending on how good you are with your fingers shoes off and then you can get enough access to change them over.

to seat them using a piece of 30*5mm bar with a suitable hole (stud dia+.5mm) drilled in it wind the adjacent studs nut on backwards (taper out). Place the stud into the hole, the bar over the stud you're replacing and put its nut on backwards. with the bar providing torque reaction on the hub do up the nut till the stud seats completely at the back + about 1/6th of a turn.

remove the backwards nuts and the bar and reassemble everything else.

In a pinch a meter bar or tyre lever up against 2 studs with the nuts wound on to protect the threads will do the job.

If you have the small double taper nuts its a good idea to counter sink the hole on the bar and grease the taper (dont get any on the stud splines)