Bundalene's Puma project

**isuzurover** · 22nd November 2010, 05:46 PM

Originally Posted by miky

My understanding is that the fuel filter is 5 microns to remove water. I doubt very much that the filter filters mentioned above go that far so some water above 5 microns will get through which means that water will accumulate in the fuel filter and regular maintenance (draining) will still be required.

I have attached the relevant file from the Puma manual about the fuel system.

.

Micron ratings of filters really annoy me - though they are commonly used in (liquid) filtration. (almost all) Filters are not sieves, so they usually don't remove all of the particles of a given size. So a "5 micron rated" filter will probably only remove ~50% of 5 micron particles.

Water filtration is not really the same as solid contaminant filtration in fluids. The (hydro) -phobicity or -philicity of the media is often just as or more important than the fibre diameter etc (i.e. how well it filters).

Modern (commonrail) engines need better water removal than older engines. Also, all diesel can now have up to 5% bio in AU, with 10% coming soon. This has caused extra issues, as water is (partially) soluble in most bio, and the water can come out of solution after it has passed through the filter.

If I had a puma, I would contact Donaldson or Fleetgard and see what they reccommend as an additional filter.

Failing that, just putting one of the good old CAV filter/sedimenters before the main filter will - at the very least - extend the life of the $$$ main filter, but should also reduce the chance of water getting through. Before anyone says that the CAV won't handle the flow/pressure, there are plenty of prople using them on toyota D4D engines.

**Bundalene** · 22nd November 2010, 06:48 PM

I was thinking of something like the following at the engine bay end - a bit cramped I must admit. I would also add a water trap sensor.

DIESEL FUEL FILTER WITH HAND PRIMER - 5 MICRON For Sale in Australia

My problem is breaking into the existing fuel lines neatly. I have been looking for a fuel line repair kit from a US company Dorman Products - not sure if this is what I need? I have done a lot of investigating and can only buy OEM lines with fittings. There are a few vehicle manufacturers who are now using these fittings.

Erich

**Bundalene** · 22nd November 2010, 07:01 PM

This afternoon we masked up the front right A pillar and spray painted with Hifill.

Tomorrow a rub back and final colour I hope. All other panels will be painted off the car, including the snorkel, mirrors, ....

Erich

**Naks** · 22nd November 2010, 07:13 PM

Originally Posted by nod 130

very fine metal gauze will do the same as long as it is wet with diesel before the water gets to it . .

One of those facemasks that paint shops use will also do the trick.

**isuzurover** · 22nd November 2010, 07:17 PM

Originally Posted by Bundalene

I was thinking of something like the following at the engine bay end - a bit cramped I must admit. I would also add a water trap sensor.

DIESEL FUEL FILTER WITH HAND PRIMER - 5 MICRON For Sale in Australia

My problem is breaking into the existing fuel lines neatly. I have been looking for a fuel line repair kit from a US company Dorman Products - not sure if this is what I need? I have done a lot of investigating and can only buy OEM lines with fittings. There are a few vehicle manufacturers who are now using these fittings.

Erich

Erich - That is the CAV type filter - I have bought them without the hand primer for ~$65 from places like QLD diesel spares / truckline. You can get a sedeimenter only with an alloy bowl, and then make one large combined filter/sedimenter out of the two - you just need a longer centre bolt (of course you may already be aware of all this???).

A 5 micron rating is quite coarse by modern standards. I am sure the standard filter would be better than that. So if you place it after the main filter, it won't do much, and won't prolong the life of your main filter. CAV type elements are <$5 each. I probably replace 3 of them for each 1 main (isuzu) filter on my 110.

**dullbird** · 22nd November 2010, 07:30 PM

If your going to fit one Erich I will watch with interest...

I was warned off due to adding another restriction to the fuel line...but I'm sure that was advice based on theory not practical

**isuzurover** · 22nd November 2010, 07:40 PM

Originally Posted by dullbird

If your going to fit one Erich I will watch with interest...

I was warned off due to adding another restriction to the fuel line...but I'm sure that was advice based on theory not practical

Commonrail diesels flow much more fuel than they need. The pressure drop through a 5um filter won't be huge. As I mentioned - there are plenty of D4D owners using them.

You can also get 1 and 2 micron rated filters for CAV setups. However I personally would fit a 5 micron before the main filter.

**one_iota** · 22nd November 2010, 08:19 PM

Erich,

Taking into account the comments above:

The fuel filter on the puma is located forward of the drivers side rear wheel on the chassis rail and is "protected" by a removable steel cover.

If the main filter was moved forward to say the firewall (as you say space is challenging) and the additional cav type filter with water trap and detector took the place of the original filter would this work?

**Bundalene** · 22nd November 2010, 08:49 PM

Originally Posted by one_iota

Erich,

Taking into account the comments above:

The fuel filter on the puma is located forward of the drivers side rear wheel on the chassis rail and is "protected" by a removable steel cover.

If the main filter was moved forward to say the firewall (as you say space is challenging) and the additional cav type filter with water trap and detector took the place of the original filter would this work?

The only problem moving the filter unit to the engine bay is the other function of the filter which houses a temperature controlled valve in the return line. This is a quote from the manual:

The thermostatic diverter valve is fully closed at 45 degrees Celsius and sends fuel directly to the tank. When the diverter is open fuel is re-circulated through the filter to the engine.

Erich

**isuzurover** · 23rd November 2010, 09:20 AM

Originally Posted by Bundalene

The only problem moving the filter unit to the engine bay is the other function of the filter which houses a temperature controlled valve in the return line. This is a quote from the manual:

The thermostatic diverter valve is fully closed at 45 degrees Celsius and sends fuel directly to the tank. When the diverter is open fuel is re-circulated through the filter to the engine.

Erich

It sounds as if the purpose of the valve is to heat the fuel in the fuel rail (etc) up to operating temperature as quickly as possible???

If so - moving it closer to the engine will only mean the fuel rail gets to operating temp faster.

However, on a 110, there is room for a filter on either side of the outrugger in front of the rear wheel. However the front location might be out if you are fitting a long range tank?

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