Disco 12V Install

**iPom** · 5th December 2010, 03:25 PM

Well....I've been meaning to do this ever since I acquired a fridge to go in the back of the Disco plus The Wife with her phone and iPod and also the wee one wanting to watch DVDs in the back seat....and one 12 volt outlet in the front wasn't going to cut the mustard....
So....I already had a BEP VSR lying around me shed and decided to put it use. I fit these as part of my job and they seem to be a good unit. I decided to fit a Delkor DC 24 70a/h as the size was about the largest I could fit in the area in front of the airbox. I had to fabricate a bracket to mount the ignition coil/amplifier and also the P/S reservoir, this was bolted to the existing P/S mounting point with two bolts and nylocks. It seems to work well although I may modify it later. I also had to cut the trumpet off the airbox. I made some 'J' hooks by welding some threaded rod to some camping pegs and also fabbed up a brace out of 20mm angle to sit across the top of the battery. I placed a strip of conveyor belt rubber under the angle as well.

I've installed a 60 amp circuit breaker next to the Delkor which I can also use as isolator switch by manually pressing it.

Here's the VSR with a 8 way hot feed fuse panel and the negative buss bar. This supplies a feed for the four 12 volt outlets in the front of the disco. The negative link is 2B/S and the outputs off the VSR are in 8 B/S, I'll probably change that to 6B/S if I have any issues. I would have done it originally but didn't have any spare when I did the install.

12 volts outlets...

All the outlets are separately fused and using 5mm cable (2.90mm squared). I've since added a another 12v outlet under the bonnet for a worklight which has been a handy addition. After getting some feedback about how to run a supply to the rear of the Disco, I settled on BLKnight's suggestion (thanks) and ran a 6B/S Twin under the carpet to the rear. I originally was going to run the feed on top of the chassis rails but after mocking it up I decided it was for me. I'm sure it would have been fine but I felt it was a little bit exposed and prone to damage. I went in through the existing loom grommet on the drivers side. This is a 6 way 'Alzone' branded combo for both +ve and -ve connections. I like these combos as they are rated for 100 amps and the cover prevents any nasty short circuit comedy moments...This was thru bolted to the trim using 3/16th stainless bolts with nylocks.

I then had to run the wires over to passenger side for the rear 12v outlets...The cable run was secured using little plastic saddles and a little blob of sikaflex applied to the screw....

I decided to run it under the carpet trim but because of it's bulk I had to modify the plastic trim. Fortunately I was able to create a space inside the trim by cutting off two ribs of plastic than ran along the underside using a cutting disc on a grinder. Voilà the wire now sits snug under the trim and carpet... I ran two feeds of 5mm auto cable for the ciggie sockets and a 6mm squared cable for the Hella socket..

Here is piccie of the terminated ends of the 6B/S feed...I've ES2 heat shrink which has a glue inside which seals the crimp when heat shrunk....not so critical in this area but a good termination never the less....

I will more than likely modify this set up to suit as my Land Rover ownership continues....I've already added a rear worklight above the spare tyre using a carling switch in the rear cargo to keep it legit..

Regards iPom

**Tank** · 9th December 2010, 11:08 AM

Very professional work, but may I point out 2 things, not criticising, just helpful hints.
1. the power outlet on the back of the centre console can be a PITA if like me you pack a fair bit of gear in the back and 2. does the back seat clear it when in the down position, Regards Frank.

**cockie55** · 9th December 2010, 11:31 AM

greaaat work..but one warning ...

.....when there is a bit of cable movement and use of ES2/Glue heat shrink. I have a boat that incorporated ES2 on one battery terminal and and normal heat shink on the other terminal. The cable incorporating glue had all the wires gradualy break at the rigid glue line behind the terminal. The other cable that had normal heat shrink remained flexible behind the terminal remained perfect.

**iPom** · 9th December 2010, 08:09 PM

Originally Posted by Tank

Very professional work, but may I point out 2 things, not criticising, just helpful hints.
1. the power outlet on the back of the centre console can be a PITA if like me you pack a fair bit of gear in the back and 2. does the back seat clear it when in the down position, Regards Frank.

Hi Frank..Thanks for your kind comments regarding my work. I try to work along the old adage that if a jobs worth doing do it right the first time.

To be very honest it never really crossed my mind about the seat folding down issue as my daughter sits in a car seat on the drivers side back seat. So in theory these (double) fold down seats will never be folded down whilst the socket is in use. I went out and checked your observation and you are correct. When folded the seat will butt up against the surface mounted socket. I did ponder about fitting a flush mounted one, I think there is enough depth to get one in there but as I had run out of flush mounts and had a surface mount so decided to fit that type. In hindsight and if I was going to do it again (which I will do when I get a TDI) I'll remember your input and probably relocate to a different position..maybe on the side or even in the center console.

Regards Dave

**Blknight.aus** · 9th December 2010, 08:17 PM

if you take the center console cubby out you can nicely drill in and recess 2x sockets into the voids on either side of the cubby box. the way the split works on the seats is such that if you position the sockets correctly if you have the 60% split down the socket on the left remains usable and if you fold the 40% split down the one on the right remains usable. Hindsight being what it is when I did the wifes disco I have put 2 on the right of the cubby and one on the left.

I Also left in an additional wire under the electric windows panel with the intent of running the electric windows off the AUX battery, one or the other of us is forever forgetting to put the windows up after the ignition is off..

Good work on the install though.

**iPom** · 9th December 2010, 08:34 PM

Originally Posted by cockie55

greaaat work..but one warning ...

.....when there is a bit of cable movement and use of ES2/Glue heat shrink. I have a boat that incorporated ES2 on one battery terminal and and normal heat shink on the other terminal. The cable incorporating glue had all the wires gradualy break at the rigid glue line behind the terminal. The other cable that had normal heat shrink remained flexible behind the terminal remained perfect.

Hi Cockie. I've been taught always to have wires/cables in a snug not tight position. Vibration is a common enemy especially in a marine/vehicle environment. The trick with ES tube is to make sure it passes beyond the exposed wires and fully onto the insulation, it will never fracture at that point because it will have to break the insulation as well. A common mistake with both normal heat shrink tubing and ES tubing is to make it too short. A lot of the time this is probably down cost and the cheap shrink tube that is available at many Auto Stores where the majority of people buy it from. The trouble is that 'normal' heat shrink gradually over time (depending on conditions) loses it's 'shrinkness' (for want of a better word) and becomes flaccid allowing moisture/salt etc into the exposed ends of the cable causing the wire the corrode and eventually break and at the same time losing it's ability to conduct. If you want I will gladly send you half a meter of various size ES tubing free of charge to use.

Regards Dave

**iPom** · 9th December 2010, 08:46 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

if you take the center console cubby out you can nicely drill in and recess 2x sockets into the voids on either side of the cubby box. the way the split works on the seats is such that if you position the sockets correctly if you have the 60% split down the socket on the left remains usable and if you fold the 40% split down the one on the right remains usable. Hindsight being what it is when I did the wifes disco I have put 2 on the right of the cubby and one on the left.

I Also left in an additional wire under the electric windows panel with the intent of running the electric windows off the AUX battery, one or the other of us is forever forgetting to put the windows up after the ignition is off..

Good work on the install though.

Thank you once again for your input ...I do agree with you about the orientation...It's easier for any one in the passenger seat to reach over and put a plug into the right hand side of the console. Running the 6B/S feed under the carpet was so much easier thanks

Dave

**iPom** · 10th December 2010, 06:18 AM

I'd just like to add that if any Aulorians who are local to me on the Sunny Coast and need any cables crimping e.g for battery systems etc and don't have access to a Heavy Duty Crimping Tool, I'll be glad to help out. I'll even heat shrink them too with ES shrink tube....

Dave

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