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Awsome. ThankyouQuote:
Originally Posted by steveG
Anther question for all and this might be something to add to the thread, what are the possibilities of the clutch and or handbrake shoes being asbestos lined? It is something that was just posed to me. I'm unsure of what year asbestos was removed fom clutch/brake linings in AUS. If they wern't asbestos lined, do the shoes from earlier models fit in the LT95 handbrake that might possibly have asbestos in the shoe linings?
Many thanks
Legislation and Exposure Standards
Use of asbestos
Schedule 2 of the National Model Regulations for the Control of Workplace Hazardous Substances allows for the prohibition of use of specific substances where the risks to employees' health are significant and where no other control is adequate. In 2001, Schedule 2 was amended to include chrysotile asbestos so that from 31 December 2003 it is illegal to use, re-use or sell any products containing any form of asbestos in Australia. State and Territory legislation has been updated accordingly. Importing or exporting of asbestos is also banned. The ban does not apply to asbestos products that are already in place but when they are replaced, non-asbestos alternatives must be used. Any stockpiles of asbestos-containing products must be safely disposed of. There are a few exemptions that apply for a transitional period only for some uses of asbestos where no safe alternatives currently exist. Contact WorkCover for further information on exemptions.
Hmmm. Ok. Thankyou. So I dare say the clutch and handbrake shoe friction material does contain asbestos.
Bit of a tread bump but this seems like the best place to ask.
I'm in the process of sourcing a TRB conversion for my LT95 in my 110
The GB isn't the factory one(should be an lt85) and I believe is a short shift LT95 from a rangie. I'm trying to work out if this would have the .996 ratio in it. it sits at considerably lower revs than the LT95 in the stage one for an equivilent speed to the point where 1st feels to tall on 32s.
Is the best way to check this
Jack the vehicle up
Drain the oil
Take the cover plate off
Count the teeth on the gear attached to the center diff looking for 45/26
Reassemble in reverse
Cheers
Rob
Rob,Quote:
Originally Posted by Distortion
Yes, that's how I would check it. This is what I believe are the options:-
LT95 Serial Numbers355-XXXXX Suffix
355 Suffix A & B RRC71-76 1.174:1 47/32 teeth
355 Suffix C RRC77-80 1.113:1 48/31 teeth
355 Suffix C RRC80-81 1.1227:1 43/28 teeth
12C RRC 82-85 .966:1 45/31teeth
Stage 1 Series III 1.336:1 40/31 teeth
Other 1.000:1 50/29 teeth
My Stage 1 (ISUZU) has the 1.336 and this is no-where near tall enough without the overdrive. Still looking for a set of .966 transfer gears.
If you find a source of the TRB kit for the LT95 I'd be very keen to know.
Cheers
Pete
Just checked
Mine is 12C08533A which would suggest the correct ratio
The set I've located is second hand from a forum member assuming all goes well you could prob get the 996 gears out of my 110 if you wanted them as I won't use the series for cruising any where so there seems little point in putting them into that
also found the following site
http://www.range-rover-classic.com/H...er---australia
which lists these
Manual Transmission 12C with integrated transfer case LT95
- 4 speed and transfer box, - central differential lockable
high (1.0000 - 12C00001A to 01060A) - From Feb 1981
high (0.9962 - 12C01061A -on) - From Sep 1981
and low (3.32) ratio.
Gear ratios:
1st. 4.069; 2nd. 2.448; 3rd. 1.505; 4th. 1.0; R. 3.664
Hello all from a Brit who's new to this forum, and new to rebuilding the LT95!
I've a long tale of gearbox woe to tell one day, but I have a short and hopefully easy question:
Does anyone know the bearing reference for the big roller bearing on the input shaft?
At this stage I'm planning just to replace that - the rest of the box works fine, apart from a whine when the clutch is let out (regardless of whether it's in neutral or a gear is selected) so I'm crossing fingers that it's that big roller bearing. I can spin it up once I've changed it and see how it sounds - next step would be layshaft bearings, which I thought would also be easy until I realised that the mainshaft has to come out, with all the selectors and reassembly grief that can bring! Still, at least if I do have to do it, I'll have plenty of reference here.
So, just that bearing ref would be great if anyone knows?
Welcome to the forum!
I've found the following in my notes, but can't confirm 100% that its correct.
Should give you a place to start though, or perhaps someone else can confirm:
593619 ==> pinion bearing
Pinion bearing RHP MJ1.2/2
MJ1.1/2 RHP A MJ1.1/2 E inner diam38.1 --- outer diam95.25 --thickness23.812 Single-row deep groove ball bearing, open type, inch series
Steve
Thanks Steve, have tracked one down using that RHP reference! :thumbsup:
Howdy Y'all ,I need some guidance ta.
Replaced the lt95 speedo housing rear mainshaft seal recently,and while there replaced drum brake shoes.
The seal was allowing oil into the brake drum area,so handbrake non effective or so i thought.
The speedo housing has always leaked so replaced the gasket and used decent threebond sealant and left it 18 hours to set.
re installed and still seeps when hot.
Twice i've done this gasket replacement with the same result.small puddle on garage floor overnight,,aargh.
Are the mating faces possibly warped 'the lipped speedo housing cannot simply be sanded flat'thoughts..
My dilemma is after doing this work i now have a shudder felt thru steering wheel that definitely feels like driveline out of balance .
Wasn't there before i undertook this work,and havent touched anything else bar front tyre pressure which i will drop back to compare.
I didn't tighten the speedo housing large nut,but will check it for correct torque.
The book talks of shims available to offset the new thicker gasket for bearing pre load.
I couldn't find exactly what they are called,nor a part number to order them,any idea here?
On removing the speedo housing second time i still had the drake drum on so fairly weighty, gently tapped to release the speedo housing while prying it to release the siliconed gasket and the entire presumably centre diff pulled out with it,,crikey
I tried to reseat it to no avail,so removed the entire shaft unit to get a better idea how to guide it back.
A gear fell of the end as i layed it down,i had a close look and looks like and fits like a symmetrical gear,so 50/50 it went back on same side up.
Question if it is symmetrical does it matter if it got flipped?
Guided the shaft and gears back in to a point where the shaft had to pick up the bearing half,and by shear luck by rotating gently it picked up the bearing and reseated ,phew...
q2:Is this a major that it pulled out?
All back together ,and i see the brake drum has been drilled during balancing at factory,and the rear propshaft balanced then also.
As both rotating masses i presume the drum doesn't have to be reset the same orientation to maintain balance?
Is there a way to adjust the handbrake lever throw on an lt95 early range rover classic?
I can adjust the transmission brake shoes so they aren't binding.
If the adjustment screw is backed off further from holding the drum,under heavy normal braking the car still shudders,and backed off further until it doesn't shudder,the handbrake is no longer effective on a slope!
I have seen this before with new shoes but not this bad,so wanted to adjust the handbrake lever throw but it's all linkages and no cable adjustment.
The link arms have two threaded locking nuts,and adjusting these makes little difference,no reference to any of this for adjustment i can find in two door classic manuals or lt95 literature..any experience here?
With the handbrake backed off entirely,negated effectively,the driveline shudder is still there,so wondering if something i have done has thrown the balance out,harmonic at 50km,then again at 85km/h?
Cheers Westy