Just checked out their site and they list a Ford green which looks like it's close.
Printable View
Just checked out their site and they list a Ford green which looks like it's close.
Found this supposedly Aussie crowd too...
Motorcoater Engine Enamel
If the gos is correct, POR 15 was originally "designed" at least in part by an Aussie, who eventually returned home and initiated the KBS formulaeQuote:
Originally Posted by FIXR7
Crossover tube mods. There'll be a 5/8" Barb added for the header tank too..
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/09/1204.jpg
Verrrry nice write up, and lots of photos are always appreciated. This will be a great thread for anyone thinking of any big conversion, because it shows all those time-consuming and expensive fiddly bits that make so much work.
This handy little device(thanks to Tony)...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/09/1050.jpg
Was helpful in doing this...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/09/1051.jpg
The finished item...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/09/1052.jpg
Here's how the heater tubes lined up with the factory hoses. Pretty bloody good!...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/09/1053.jpg
Which allowed me to fit this tap...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/09/1054.jpg
Put the rails and injectors on and laid the harness on there. Because I'm using the truck lower it has the ACT(Air Charge Temp) sensor in runner number 6 instead of the usual number 5. So the harness needs opening up to drag the ACT wiring back a bit...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/09/1055.jpg
Like so...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/09/1056.jpg
Plugged in...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/09/1057.jpg
Hopefully next weekend I'll fire it up. Most likely that'll be all though, as I still have bit to do trans wise.
How about a couple of pictures of that special tool? I've been meaning to make one for ages.
I was just thinking that while you're at it and have the access, you might want to put some Dynomat Extreme or similar on that lovely white bulkhead behind the engine. I'll be doing the same thing soon - and whatever else it takes to keep that heat out of the interior.
Yes Davo, I was thinking about putting the original moulded rubber thingy back on but it's not in the greatest condition. Probably should have done that before I put the engine back in though. That dynomat mob might have something suitable to cut both heat and noise... of course that heater tap I've put in will go a long way to cut down the heat inside.
For my Rangie, I've got a sheet of Dynamat Extreme for just that area. Looking around, I couldn't find anything else that said it would be okay for the engine bay. As a test, I cut a corner off and stuck it on near a cylinder head and it's been fine so far. So when I saw your photos I thought you might want to do that now before it's too late!
For the interior, I got a pile of something called DBkill. It's about the same thing but apparently not rated for under the bonnet. I'll be slapping that stuff down anywhere I can get to inside the car. I'm replacing the engine and gearbox soon, (as in: sometime this decade), and heat and soundproofing is a priority.
I've got the heater hoses on the Rover V8 bypassed, just with a U-shaped hose at the back of the manifold. I found out that you can't just block them - or put a tap in as you've done. I'll be pulling out the old heater core and not replacing it as there's about eight weeks of early mornings when you might miss it up here, and that's all!
Compared to the eight weeks a year you DON'T need it down here...:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Davo