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Thread: 351W EFI into Classic Rangie

  1. #131
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Kalamunda WA
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    I'll check out that dynamat extreme stuff.
    If you use the tap like I have it will work because it bypasses the coolant back to the pump unlike a single tap in one line. Now I've got to seen where I can switch the vac motor from, in the heater control.

  2. #132
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    May 2007
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    Okay, I get it. You don't stop the coolant flow, just bypass it to where it would go anyhow. I eventually worked out with the Rover that it comes out of the back of the manifold, goes through the heater, and then through the rusty pipe bolted under the manifold to the water pump. Very entertaining design.
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  3. #133
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    May 2010
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    This was the original heater pipe setup on my 3.9....


  4. #134
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Kalamunda WA
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    Got some more done this weekend but nothin much during the week due to being rather unwell. So no fire up unfortunately.
    Here's the mods I did to the pwr steer oil return feed. Normally it's a moulded in barb sticking out the back so I cut it off and sealed with a nut and bolt and put the new brass barb in the side.
    This wasn't strictly necessary but it's how I preferred it to be.



    Here I'm making stainless O2 bosses because the damn speed shop lied and sold me steel ones!? ****wits!



    Here's how the covers look after milling the extra lettering off and painting green. Couldn't actually find any landrover green engine enamel so I bought ordinary Dulux enamel in spray can(probably find there's little difference if any between engine enamel and enamel). Masked off the rectangle, hit it with etch primer then the green then clear engine enamel. I used brake cleaner on a cloth to wipe the paint off the logo.





    The pressure sensor for the new autometer oil pressure gauge. There happened to be a hole already tapped with the correct thread size for it. What a bargain!



    Front dress all sorted...

  5. #135
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Kalamunda WA
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    And action.....

    [ame="http://s9.photobucket.com/albums/a73/XR9UTE/Rangie/?action=view&current=startup.mp4"]Rangie :: startup.mp4 video by XR9UTE - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid9.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid9.photobucket.com/albums/a73/XR9UTE/Rangie/startup.mp4@@AMEPARAM@@vid9@@AMEPARAM@@9@@AMEPARAM @@a73/XR9UTE/Rangie/startup@@AMEPARAM@@mp4[/ame]

    Now to do everything else.

  6. #136
    Join Date
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    Standing Ovation. Well done. Running Sweet!

  7. #137
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Kalamunda WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrapocalypse View Post
    Standing Ovation. Well done. Running Sweet!
    Thanks man, I like how it just fired straight up. Open headers are good to **** the neighbours off for awhile too Still got a ****load to do but hopefully I'll have enough done to have it driving by the end of the month.

  8. #138
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Kalamunda WA
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    Here's some stuff I did before the fire up.
    Harness done, added trans temp gauge and oil pressure gauge and Trans/Optishift wiring to it also....



    Vacuum Tee I had to shorten to clear the rocker cover...



    the result..



    Hooked up BOB to check out the harness and Optishift...



    And after I started it I got this fitting from Enzed to adapt the power steer hose to -6AN fittings...



    like this...



    This is for fitting the trans temp sender in line, -6 with 1/8" NPT...



    As you can see it was not deep enough hence the adapter...



    Which had too small a hole in it so I had to drill it out!?..



    Fixed..



    Stripped the Alternator wiring outta the DF and thought why not use the fuse block too. I simply unhooked the wiring I'm not using for the moment. I'll just put it back it when and if I use it later...



    Made some little stainless brackets and mounted here behind the header tank. Btw the alternator works perfectly, no need to change the wattage of the stock bulb in the dash..



    Tracked the oil light,temp gauge and tacho wiring back to the cluster and found the best place to get at it here...



    Put a 3 pin econoseal on there and used the wire I stripped out of the engine bay side to keep the same wire colours..



    Some more goodies to go on. The furry inspector loves to go bush bashin btw

  9. #139
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Kalamunda WA
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    Put bonnet back on today with some surprising results.
    Turns out I don't need to cut the bonnet for clearance afterall.
    The rear bracing of the bonnet is where I thought I had to modify. Not so...



    Here's the bonnet brace that comes into contact with the EGR spacer.





    Here's the clearance to edge of the bonnet brace(not the centre of it).




    So, seeing as I don't have EGR I'll just modify the EGR spacer.
    Welded the EGR port shut and the cooling hole.
    Before and after..



    That's better...



    Hasn't looked like this for awhile.


  10. #140
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Lower Hunter Valley NSW
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    Done like a true professional, well done mate!

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