Ikea 6X6D - anyone have an allen key?

The middle diff in mine looks to be identical to yours and from my investigations comes from the same type of vehicle. When it was pulled apart there was a chain driving the pinion for the rear most shaft. With the brakes it did stop with the drums BUT if you like sitting under the truck more than driving it then stick with the drums. Because I use mine for carrying weight the drums needed adjusting every couple of weeks. You haven't owned a land rover if you think there drum brakes are superior to the discs.The army use 1979 F350 master cylinders, I was going to do this but pbr wont sell you one and for all the hassle of doing this I'd rather use a new one and it became too hard to find after market. They do this cause the rover master cylinders just dont push enough fluid to run so many wheel cylinders. I put disco rear calipers and the stage one master and the pedal is good. The taper I'm talking about is where the a frame joins the top of the diff. Where the ball joint bolts in mine got flogged out a couple of times.I've tried doing a few things to make the rover type taper work but with no success. This time I'm going to graft a salisbury type one on they are much beefier. I think it's the constant dragging of the rear end every time you turn that does it. Once it starts flogging sideways it doesn't take long before it becomes loose in all directions. The isuzu will work great with stage one gears with a four speed. If you could get a 5 speed to handle the extra strain the 6x6 set up puts on things it would be ok I think. All comes down to how much load it's going to carry. I'm going for a blower cause I want the low down torque it will give. When you have a few ton in the tray and a trailer on sand driving becomes a little harder.

OK now I know where your coming from.

Firstly I have owned Land Rovers since the 1960s and have had them with every type of braking system, however I neither believe drum brakes are superior to disks nor are they so bad that one would be afraid to drive it. The interesting thing is that Land Rover F/C & 6cyl/V8 11" brakes have a larger swept area to than the old drum brake Ford F150s with 351V8. The problem was always the lack of boost from the OEM Girling mastervac. The drum brake vehicles I had with the best brakes were using PBR mastervacs retrofitted out of F150/Holden Torana LC (Same parts).

As I said, the disk brake retrofit will be a medium term task, getting it back on the road being a higher priority. If you are able to find a master cyl/ booster unit that will fit I will be very interested to join in. The F350 master cylinders must be available somewhere, even if ex-US, but aren't the Army 6X6 also rear drum brakes?

On the through drive, not having taken it apart but studying the external arrangement, I would have thought the chain drive is to the pinion on the middle axle assembly and the gear/shaft drive is to the rearmost axle assembly?

I have been thinking of attempting to build a similar chain system onto the pinion of another Salisbury. What is most interesting is that the Army 6X6 G-Wagens just being rolled out to units have a through drive. My plans are to investigate if the Mercedes assemblies could be grafted into my/our Defenders. Watch this space!

I have had the A Frame ball joint mount come completely off a RRc housing, so am aware of the weaknesses. Your advice about upgrading is useful.

On the engine and transmission. This will be a work in progress, in the short term I will be using an LT85 5 speed and Disco LT230 ratios 1.211:1. The subsequent plans are one of "The Grubbs" Isuzu MSA 5speed gearbox/LT230 conversions, still on the Disco ratio. The engine 4BD1-T. I have a stage 1 4BD1 which will be the original engine with a turbo bolted on but no other mods, allowing me to build up a second 4BD1 (which I also have) as a full 4BD1-T spec, oil squirters etc. Super charging sounds interesting, but it may be a possibility on the second engine.

Would still be interested in images of your vehicle

Diana :)

drum brakes are more efficient than discs until they are way out of adjustment, hot, or wet. I agree with John, a correctly adjusted set of rear drums on a 200Tdi 110 are just as good as the disc brake model IME.
And supercharging a 4BD1 (or most other diesels for that matter) isn't as good as turbocharging one, get the manifolding right and intercool it and it will be a way better set up.

JC

The army converted all rovers to disc. They have a conversion plate to mount the calipers and a special stub so you don't have to change the axles as well. The extra screwing of the back end just wrecks the bake adjustment and that leads very quickly to not enough fluid transfer when there is four wheel cylinders as well as 2 calipers. You just have to be spot on all the time with the adjustment, When mine wasn't loaded was fine, But add weight and I don't care how many 4x4's you have had it just isn't the same. I've had series 3 and county with no problem but ad 2 more wheels and you have no idea until the bills are coming out of your pocket. I think there is an after market fix for the F350 master cylinder but it just got too hard and I think there was dramas with size of the booster cause the army 6x6 are around a foot wider than a stock rover. The 5 speed would fix the problem of power, you just run out of power with the four speed and have to wait so long to be able to knock it back a gear. Have a fairy overdrive for it but I dont think it would take the strain. Just a turbo would make all the difference. Would like to know how it goes. I go off road a fair bit and the ability to get boost at idle will make it heaps better I think. The coils on mine make it sit good with about a ton in the tray. That's at the point when every one else is asking for another vehicle. It's just sitting down nice and actually getting full traction. That's where the air bags will be good if you can get them sorted. I don't think you will have trouble with the middle diff .If I haven't wrecked mine yet you will have to be pretty nasty to it. Mine has rover hub and pinion seals( front and back) and rover bearings. Apparently someone in germany makes these diffs so you may be on the right track with the merc thing.

I have a couple or RRc rear axle assemblies, any point attempting to canibalise the calipers and hubs of these?

The volume of the disco calipers is probably as big as you would want. Any bigger and the stage one master wont pump enough fluid and you could run into dramas with using and mounting a bigger one. The booster the army use is about 500mm accross. But they do use defender front calipers all round. I would measure the difference between RRc and disco rear. Slightly smaller would be super. The disco calipers aren't too dear. Just make sure you get pre ABS.

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Originally Posted by jorjatom68

The volume of the disco calipers is probably as big as you would want. Any bigger and the stage one master wont pump enough fluid and you could run into dramas with using and mounting a bigger one. The booster the army use is about 500mm accross. But they do use defender front calipers all round. I would measure the difference between RRc and disco rear. Slightly smaller would be super. The disco calipers aren't too dear. Just make sure you get pre ABS.

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Sorry for not visiting this thread for a while.

Ikea (was built in the Defender era) has Defender front disks which are being converted to ventilated rotors and calipers off a 1996 Defender and AFAIK the master cylinder is specified for the 3 axles by Reynolds Boughton/Land Rover Special Vehicles.

The booster unit is the same as used on the Defenders, not the Stage 1.

I have got so bored about getting the flaking paint off the chassis, I've decided to have it dipped. As a result the chassis will be going for a swim tomorrow morning and hopefully be back in the afternoon ready for primer and paint. :)

Diana

What is the bore size. If it's close to the stage 1 bore and fits the defender booster it would be so much easier to get the parts for.I finally got some photos of my truck. Only had it for eight years or so.

I haven't taken the Mcyl apart but it looks the same as the Defender Mcyl not the Stage one.

Am glad I had the chassis dipped, when it came out I could see rust under the bump stop mounts, so they have been removed and am fabricating replacments for the mounts. Without removing the paint I would never have seen the problem and the chassis itself would have soon been at risk of invasive rust.

Thanks for the image. Any chance of some piccies of the rear floor, seatbox and door area. Under the wheelarch would also be good!

I'll try to get some on the weekend. It's made up of a ute rear that has been cut and shut on a wagon wheel arch. The roof is the wagon cut down too. I had the same trouble with the bump stops. Cause mine is plated on the sides I have to take the whole cab off to remove all the double plating as rust has got into it all. I'm going to give up on the supercharger idea as the bottom pulley is going to be too big to b able to run a clutch pulley on the blower. From asking around the clutch pulley seems to be the answer to getting the blower to work on a diesel without any hassle. Think I'll be like everyone else and have a turbo. Will just need to find one that works just above idle though as the weight these things carry and soft sand aren't going to like turbo lag too much.