Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 18

Thread: Discovery 2 Alternator and Battery Monitor Modification.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Middlesex
    Posts
    11
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Discovery 2 Alternator and Battery Monitor Modification.

    Although our Discovery 2s have plenty of electronics, I miss not having a Voltmeter or Ammeter, as they can give advanced warning of developing electrical problems.

    I added an LED 12 Volt Power Monitor to an existing blank lower dashboard switch plate (FBV000090PUY), using the Velleman 12 volt Car Battery Monitor Kit MK189.

    Alternately a blank upper binnacle switch plate (FBV000080PUY) may be used, if no vacant / blank lower dashboard switch is available. Both blank switch bodies are the same, but with different clip-on front panels.

    Drill a 3mm diameter hole in the centre of the blank switch plate and fitted the finished kit into the switch plate body, which is a perfect fit, make sure you cut the 3 LED legs to the correct length.

    Take an Ignition Switched 12 volt power feed from the Passenger Compartment Fuse Box, connecting into the lowest relay socket using male spade connectors (R211 V8 Engine Ignition Coil Relay).

    (This relay is missing on TD5 D2s and so makes connecting to the vehicle power rails easy, Earth to relay connection pin 86, and +12 volt to relay connection pin 85), protected by Fuse F24 10 Amps.

    On V8 models, any other dashboard power connection points will do. The dashboard photographs also show the Land Rover additional switch housing AWR3330LNF, which replaces the Ash or Coin Trays.

    The Kit Bi-Colour LED shows a Steady Green for Battery OK. Flashing Green for Battery charging. Steady Red for Battery low, and Flashing Red for Battery overcharging.

    Although the 3mm diameter Bi-colour LED looks bright in the photograph, it is not too bright at night, matching the green background dashboard illumination.

    It is accurate, as if I switch on both front and rear heated screens, together with headlights at engine tick-over, the LED changes from flashing Green to steady Red.

    If I raise the revs very slightly above tick-over, the LED changes to steady Green, and then back to flashing Green. Luckily I have not seen a flashing Red display yet (battery over-charging).
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    7,904
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Stainless and that looks good but you are not actually reading either battery or alternator voltage.

    You are reading fuse box voltage and while you would think it was the same as the voltage at the battery, it is commonplace to get a voltage reading 1 volt or more below the battery’s actual voltage.

    This difference in voltages is caused by any load being powered through the fuse box and all those items you turned on to test the unit, are all sourced through your fuse box.

    If you carry out the test again, first measure the voltage at your battery, turn all those items on again and then test the voltage at your battery while everything is turned on.

    If there is actually any voltage drop, it will be marginal at best.

    To get an accurate voltage reading you need to get it at the battery itself and you might be able to modify your kit to do that.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    On The Road
    Posts
    30,031
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hey Tim,,
    is there a safe way of reading amps these days?
    ie; no cables in the cab?
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    7,904
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Pedro and yes there is.

    There are a few devices that use a shunt, which is placed where ever you want to get your current reading from and then you just run some thin wire into the cab to the device and job done.

    A lot safer and much easier to install instead of running huge cables into the cab, to an old style amp meter.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Fremantle WA
    Posts
    3,839
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Pedro and yes there is.

    There are a few devices that use a shunt, which is placed where ever you want to get your current reading from and then you just run some thin wire into the cab to the device and job done.

    A lot safer and much easier to install instead of running huge cables into the cab, to an old style amp meter.
    Hi Drivesafe. Is there an Oz alarm and monitoring kit (maybe similar to or better than this one? http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/contents/en-us/d702.html ) that will do as you suggest?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Middlesex
    Posts
    11
    Total Downloaded
    0
    drivesafe The mod was not intended to display an accurate voltage reading, hence I was not concerned with the voltage drop from the battery. The idea was just to detect any charging problems as quickly as possible.

  7. #7
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    Hey Tim,,
    is there a safe way of reading amps these days?
    ie; no cables in the cab?
    Yeah... And mine goes to 11


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    7,904
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Stainless View Post
    drivesafe The mod was not intended to display an accurate voltage reading, hence I was not concerned with the voltage drop from the battery. The idea was just to detect any charging problems as quickly as possible.
    Hi Stainless, I wasn’t having a go at you, just letting you know that the voltage differences can be so great, that the device would be next to useless.

    There is a youtube clip of a guy showing the voltage readout on his BMW.

    He brings the display before he puts the key in and it shows 11v.

    Then he turns the key to the ON position and the display shows 10.5v.

    He then starts the motor.

    There is no way he could have started his motor if the battery voltage was 10.5v, that’s a dead flat battery. He couldn’t have ever got the starter motor to do more than click, if that.

    All he was getting was dash voltage not battery voltage.

    My point is, the device will not be of real benefit if it’s not getting actual battery voltage readings.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    7,904
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    Hi Drivesafe. Is there an Oz alarm and monitoring kit (maybe similar to or better than this one? http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/contents/en-us/d702.html ) that will do as you suggest?
    Hi Gavin, and there use to be kits something like that a good few years back but to be honest, I have never bothered pursuing them because of the high costs.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Port Stephens N.S.W
    Posts
    3,158
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    Hey Tim,,
    is there a safe way of reading amps these days?
    ie; no cables in the cab?
    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Yeah... And mine goes to 11


    I'll see your 11 and raise you ...

    .... 'cause my little tweed baby goes to .... 12 !



    ... sorry for the hijack
    Kev..

    Going ... going ... almost gone ... GONE !! ... 2004 D2a Td5 Auto "Classic Country" Vienna Green

    2014 MUX LST with fruit
    2015 Kimberley Kamper "Classic"

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!