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Thread: Independent Suspension Design

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Witchdoctor View Post
    An image of the Profender shocks .
    It's hard to be sure from that pic, but it sure looks like that shockie has spherical bearings. IMHO these are high maintenance when used in our long distances in dusty/muddy conditions as they are not sealed.

  2. #32
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    Bush65, your right they are spherical bearings, something i will have to keep a good eye on.

    David

  3. #33
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    Those set ups are similar to the Macpherson strut ? thats what first came to my mind when i saw them.
    I think the best axle i ever came across is the AL-KO axle. no springs or shocks only the rubber bush. We have had a camper for 25 years with the AL-KO axle and its never had any maintenance and still works as good as the first day we got it.
    They work really good under load.

  4. #34
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    Air spring should arrive Friday fingers crossed. They sent me an image before they packaged them up.

    I got myself a rear end (complete) out of a Range Rover. We decided that the rear would be easier to work with for the purpose we need.
    Getting closer to a start.
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  5. #35
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    The air springs arrived, picked up the rear R/R rear axle.
    We will start stripping the axle down this week, now i'm having trouble getting hold of the 2" Chromo for the arms.
    The parts that need laser cutting goes away next week

    I'm getting excited

    Cheers
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  6. #36
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    Not that I have been involved in the use of chromoly but from what I have been informed - unless you have the perfect welding procedure that maintains strength in the HAZ you may as well just use seamless tube and a boring weld

    Less bling though

    Those short arms on your trailer design could be made of cheese and would probably still hold together!!!! 50mm chromoly - well - just wow

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  7. #37
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    Jan 1970
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    Central West NSW
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    Yep, it cracks. Without checking, I think its meant to be post heat treated also. I'd use mild steel, but each to their own.


    Here it is: I know a lot..... anyway, here it is.
    http://www.interlloy.com.au/data_she..._bar/4140.html
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  8. #38
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    "I'd use mild steel,"

    I must be tighter than you Simon 'cos I use not only mild steel but last time I checked nb32H has a seam down the inside

    my theory is its still stronger than a landy rear arm and on a trailer has tonne less loading - it works and makes bushings easy

    Witchdoctors trailer is gonna be flash! I cant wait to see it built!

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  9. #39
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    Sep 2007
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    If by chromoly you mean 4130, then yes it can crack after welding. It's the 0.3% carbon content which means you need to use a low hydrogen method.

    I would use RHS/SHS for your links instead. Strength is close to 4130 (typically 350MPa yield for SHS/RHS) but the low carbon content means welding is much less involved.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Witchdoctor View Post
    I will now be looking for a laser cutting company on the Gold Coast area to do the cutting for me.
    Which end of the coast are you? There is Gold Coast Laser in Ormeau, and All Plates in Molendinar. I have used both multiple times and would recommend either.

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