I have just started removing the CH off my discovery 200tdi engine (in a defender) and will be documenting the process for others that might want to take this job on for the first time. Process will be similar for defender version and probably not to much different to 300tdi models.
I have a small one car garage and a basic set of cheap tools, I have never done anything like this before so I have set up a fixed timelapse camera so I can go back for reference should I get un-sure on re-assembly. I'll post the timelapse, tools used and report when complete.
When I come across problems I will post in appropriate forum, and compile results here.
Also if you have any tips/tricks or things to look out for when the head is off then please post - I would rather not have to learn from my mistakes
centre punch, I actually have one of those - hurrah.. but no its no good, I can't hammer on a 7 it fits easy and the 6 is no where near, imperial sizes no help - they were rounded to start with and think I have now finished them off.
Looking at dipstick removed from base as drill/tap is not something I have done before and I'd rather not have to buy the taps if I dont have to: 200TDI Removing Oil Dipstick Tube http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=1685677
-- Update:
Made a decision to cut the bracket with a dremel mid way on both arms and to re-attach I will use a couple of plates and rivets. Not tidy but something I can do - moving on.
If you've got a pair of 6" or 8" Vice Grips you might get lucky with clamping those on hard, giving them a bit of a wiggle to allow the teeth to bite in, then trying to undo them. Cheap chinese locking pliers aren't generally any good for this, but by all means give them a go if thats all you have.
A bit of penetrant (Penetrene etc or WD40/RP7 at a pinch), and a hot air gun might also help. You could also try cutting a slot with a hacksaw and using an impact driver if you have one.
Many ways, just depends on the tools/handskills/confidence you have.
I dont have any pliers but I do have an impact driver.. the slot cut is a great idea... aborting bracket destruction.
Update: Nope, cant beleive this.. I'm getting my arse whopped by a couple of 7mm bolts that hold on a piddly bracket! I cut a nice deep slot in the bolt head, nice and centre - I could taste victory! But no, it wont budge, theres not enough room to properly swing a hammer at the impact driver. The slot eventually burred out after throwing all my tools and leverage at it, its like these bolt heads are made of plastic and the bolts have fused with the maniford.. is it a steel in aluminium thing... crap!
cutting off the heads now and drilling out the bracket, will try to use a couple of small self tapping screws to fix tha bracket back into the wounds.
Original fixings for the bracket according to Microcat:
Screw M5 x 10 Hexagonal Head (FS105107)
- Removed the bonnet (defender) by removing circlip and pin that attaches the stay arm to the bonnet. Then flipped it all the way back so it was vertical and then it just lifted out which is not easy to do on your own especially if your rover is on 32" wheels and a 2" lift!
- Removed pretty much all the air intake hoses, including those not attached to the head to make room. Easy just unscrew hose clamps and some wigglin
- Removed the airbox and oil breather pipe which runs from air box to cyclone breather on side of CH. Probably didnt need to remove the air box on mine but I like the extra space.
- Removed the intake manifold, should be very easy. Two long bolts and two nuts are found underneath the intake chamber. Grab a rachet and extension bar. Oil dipstick is attached to manifold with two little 7mm hex head screws (disco) which if your lucky should be easy to remove. I'm not lucky so I went to war on mine, took up cutters and impact drivers before I got fed up and chopped the blasted bracket off with a hack saw.
- Dropped the coolant by disconnecting the pipe at bottom of water pump. (see pic).
Leason Learnt : Have your header cap screwed on for a less violent release and then take header cap off when flow has calmed. Coolant went everywhere I thought I could catch it with a funnel but nope it overflowed and bounced off the axle and splashed all over the place... if I had a second go I would hang a large plastic sheet underneath to direct spillage to a bucket.
- Disconnected all the coolant pipes that run to the head. Heater, water pump, thermostat.
- Next took on the exhaust manifold. 4 Nuts/bolts along the top and 3 on the bottom. The bottom ones are a pig to get to and allow for only very small rotation with a normal spanner. This can be a real pain expecially if the one that has the most limited movement (bottom row at the back) decides to undo at the stud intead of the nut!
Lesson Learnt: if you dont want thoughts of ending it all with chromium lodged in your skull- buy some ratchet spanners!
Another Lesson Leart: disconnect the earth on your battery, weilding a metal spanner under the exhaust manifold will more than likely give you a nasty shock!
- When you take off the above bolts for exhaust manifold you will release a coolant passage that runs along the top of the head. Bonus.
----
thats it for now. Still havent got the manifold off because even though all the bolts to the head are undone it will not move off the studs because of turbo, downpipe etc... done for the day.
not the kind progress I was hoping for today - curse that dipstick bracket - but happy to have started.
now that I have the exhaust manifold detatched from the CH, i suppose I need to disconnect the turbo from the down pipe so I can pull the manifold off the studs and have the turbo and manifold out in one .. so ok to disconnect all pipework to the turbo or better to push it to the side?
Also looking at the intake manifold there is a bolt on the side.. whats it for?
- To free the manifold I tried undoing the bolts that connect the turbo to the downpipe so I could move out the whole turbo and manifold out in one. Theres three bolts one was hard to get to and stuck fast. I would also have to disconnect the oil feed and boost to injection pump pipe which is easy done but the oil drain pipe underneath the turbo is tricky. In the end i decided to leave the manifold in place and try and remove the manifold studs out the cylinder head so that the head could lift up and out.
- with the above in mind i moved onto injectors, removed the feed pipes from the tops of the injectors and the ends from the back of the injector pump.. very easy but injector end stiff and suddenly crack free so watch the knuckles - wear gloves.
- the injectors came out suprisingly easily. Removed the spill rail hoses that run between the injectors and back to the injector pu,p (mine was not orignial so got a new one coming in on order). Then removed the plate at the base of each injector, one nut and plate lifts out. Injector just pulls up and out.
- Glow plugs came out easy too.. removed the wire running between them , got a socket on them and wound them out.
- Rocker Cover, three bolts on the top, oil cap off, nice and easy lifted off. Gasket and a rubber half circle on each end need to be held onto or renewed.
- The rocker assembly is pretty simple, theres two bolt heads and three 'special' heads. The two bolts come right out, the 'special' ones wind out untill they are clear of the head but keeep them in the rail holes otherwise the springs push the rockers off the rails. Dumped the oily rack in the upturned rocker cover.
- Next I removed the push rods very simple pulled em out, have some tissues to wipe em up as they come out dripping. Keep track of which rod came from where.. I didnt get this info in time! not sure that its super important.. but better if you do.
- Then the caps on top of the springy things (valve lifters). Lift off super easy made sure not to drop any or knock the off!
- At this point I turned back to the manifold.. locked two nuts together at the top of each protruding stud in the cylinder head that the manifold was stuck on and wound out the studs from the head. The manifold no longer in contact with the CH.. yeah! The studs needed to come out anyway to put onto the replacement head.
- Finally got to the head bolts and unwound them bit by bit in the order specified in the workshop manual. Basically worked from the middle criss crossing outwards. Thankful for a breaker bar at this point, or be it a rather short one... I think it was just about long enough at 40cm to get leverege enough to undo. My arms and back were aching by the end of it from all the clambering around and hanging off the lever. Oh I had to remove the anchor/lift loops to clear access to the bolts which where pretty tough to turn after the headbolt drain.
- So at this point I looked around for remaining bits that would stop the head from lifting out. When all clear I got a big long screwdriver and levered the head on each end to break the seal with the gasket. Slid the head to the side a bit, away from the manifold and lifted her out. Hurrah!
- With both heads sitting side by side on the floor I transferred the remaining bits across. This included stud threads for manifold, thermostat housing and the copper pipe connector that screws into the top back of the CH for heater hose connection.
Lesson learnt: Loosen as many of these fixings as possible before the head comes off!
- Thermostat housing required the top section to come off first before you could access a bolt to remove the bottom housing, so I ordered in a replacement thermostat and gasket. Whilst I don’t have these I put the bottom housing onto the new CH with a new P Gasket and will complete the rest in situ.
- P Gasket, went on dry as I found the previous one was put on that way and it never leaked. Cleaned mating surfaces with blade and meth.
- Cleaned the block , taking bits of residue off with a razor blade then getting a vacuum cleaner to remove dust and particles before wiping down the surface with some meth spirits. Lesson learnt: Make sure you use a cloth that doesnt leave lint
- Made sure the locator dowels were present and not broken. One sits at the back of the head, the other at the front.. little metal rings that sit in the bolt hole surrounds. I found one where it should be, intact and the other in the old cylinder head block. Managed to extract with pliers without breaking it and put it back into the block (tapered edge down!).
- Positioned the head gasket onto the head with the dowels holding it is place.
- Put the new head onto the block , this was difficult on my own. I was able to stand in the engine bay and lower it on but without the exhaust manifold having been removed the two short manifold studs in the CH hit the manifold and stopped the CH moving over the dowels. The head was riding the dowels and I could shine a light down the bolt holes and see them slightly out. I used a large screwdriver to lever the manifold away from the block with one hand whilst using the other hand to move the CH onto the dowels. This was done whilst looking down the hole with a torch. With CH properly located and pushed down onto the dowels, the manifold could slot in over the studs.
Lesson learnt: Try and remove the exhaust manifold if possible otherwise have two half/slim nuts that you can lock to get the shorter exhaust manifold studs in and out of the head in situ.
- Oops forgot to put the exhaust gasket on! No big deal, the exhaust manifold could be levered off the studs and the gasket slid into place.
- Time for head bolts. Using new bolts I figured out which bolts go where with the help of the workshop manual. Oiled them up with light engine oil and lowered them all into place.
- Torqued the head bolts to 40nm with my brand new never used torque wrench (most expensive tool required at up to $100 for a kinichrome). This was done in the sequence shown on a bit of paper that came with the elring gasket and matched the workshop manual. The scale on my torque wrench was hard to read so I did 20ft pounds first time thinking it was 30ft pounds (40.7 Nm), so had to go a second sequence on 30ft pounds which is no bad thing.
- Next pulled out my never used before angle guage and fiddled with it to see how best to use it. Mine was very cheap a few dollars off ebay. Turns out to be very easy to use. Snapped it onto the end of my breaker bar and the 19mm socket on top. Positioned bar/socket for best leverage and then located the angle gauge prong against a solid flat edge on the CH. I held the prong in position with one hand and set the dial to 0 degrees. With the 'strong' arm I pulled the bar through the 60 degrees of tightening. The full sequence left me with aches down to the bone so I finished the session here.
Still a final round of 60 degree tightening to go but I will do that after some recovery time. I think the short breaker bar I have is not giving me enough leverage. The first 60 degrees was hard enough.. dreading the next 60!
great progress so far!
just a tip, try a couple of feet of pipe, tube, rhs or even a trolley jack handle on the end of your breaker bar, it will greatly reduce the effort needed to torque those bolts
Wizard
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